The first late harvest viognier produced by Langtry Estate & Vineyards came about because of a little quibble in the cellar.
A few of those responsible for racking, bottling and other tasks for the Middletown label, it seems, prefer something on the sweet side. So winemaker Eric Stine happily rewarded their palates, turning out 200 cases a year ago, released this spring.
Because it was a first attempt with one of the less populous grapes in the valley, Stine and his crew took a more hands on approach. They ushered the wine personally through each step.
“I think it came out pretty good,” Stine said of the experiment. “It”s got a lot of character.”
On the nose, Langtry”s 2013 Guenoc Valley Late Harvest Viognier promises tropical fruit, lightly singed sugar, vanilla and cream—reminiscent, in a way, of an alcoholic Creamsicle.
At least that”s what comes to mind as sweet and soft aromas lure you in.
The first sip confirms the wine”s fruitier aspect. Fresh, juicy peach flavors rush across the palate, wrapped in a velvety texture. This thins quickly, revealing apricot and pear in the transition, all steeped in vanilla.
“It”s typical of our whites in the Guenoc Valley,” Stine observed. “They show stone fruit characteristics. It”s normal even for our chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.”
The AVA (American Viticultural Area) is often blasted by early sunshine after the evening chill, causing the grapes to produce sugars before most people begin their work day. Stine harvested at 35 Brix.
Surprisingly, little of the sugary aspect is evident. This is a juicy, refreshing wine with a lingering finish. At just 10 percent alcohol, it”s also something one could appreciate on a searing August afternoon.
Come to think of it, this one-off late harvest is a backyard barbecue wine. Although the folks at Langtry suggest pairing with tarts and mild cheeses, it would be tempting to set it against saucy ribs, chicken or caramelized pork.
Stine is not certain if he will repeat the experiment for next year, even though 2014 is shaping up as a strong vintage in the Guenoc Valley.
“It has been a good seller in the tasting room,” he acknowledged.
Given the pleasing character of the wine, it”s quite likely those dry-averse Langtry staff in the cellar were appeased—at least until the 200 cases disappear.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
