A 1970s television jingle claimed that Americans love “baseball, hot dogs, apple pie and Chevrolet.”
Of course, Chrysler became the nation”s darling company in the roaring, Lee Iococca ”80s. Baseball had been overtaken by the NFL long before steroids and overprice bleacher seats threatened the summer game”s stature. And some argument could be made for pecan, peach or strawberry rhubarb pie, depending upon one”s lineage. When it comes to tradition, our devotion is a might suspect.
Except, that is, when it comes to diner fare.
Hot dogs, burgers, fries—all have survived the distraction of our culinary infatuations. Through fondue in the ”60s, the granola ”70s, the steakhouse ”90s, through Scarsdale and gluten free, through the hipster yearning for kale on everything, there has always been that little tug on our heartstrings, pulling us back to the simple roadside joint.
“It”s just fun,” said Kathy Langlais, co-owner of The Spot in Clearlake, explaining the appeal of the American diner. “It”s atmosphere, it”s entertainment.”
The Spot recreates that vibe, with red checkerboard tile, touches of chrome and a menu studded with Happy Days standards, including burgers, shakes and double shots of tequila.
OK, so the Clearlake newcomer–they”ve been in business on Lakeshore Drive for a year and a half–is not aiming for a visual recreation of the sock hop era. Nostalgia can be a trap, after all. So instead of booths, cushy patio chairs surround four-tops. In addition to the classic hand-held burger, they serve a revved up ultimate version, as well.
The ultimate burger is hand made and staked to a big hunk of French bread. Kitchen staff top this beast with six slices of cheese of three different lineages, two chiles, bacon and two mounds of onions–crispy fried rings and strings caramelized on the grill. The other accoutrements end up on the side. Lettuce, tomato, pickle and all might tumble out while clinging to the weighty tower of beef and bun.
“I like to eat,” said Vic Langlais, creator of the ultimate burger, with a laugh and a shrug.
Oh, people come for the live music on weekends and often break into dance. But the ultimate burger turned out to be an equal drawing card.
“I thought it up on a Thursday,” he recalled. “We sold 26 that day. The next day we had a order of 20 to go.”
One gentleman finished off two of them in one sitting, which is still a restaurant record.
The point of their oversized burger was not to challenge guests, however. The owners of The Spot simply know that a diner must rattle tradition, now and again. What started as a basic grill turning out burgers and fries in a ”50s style soon added a few dinner items. They followed up with breakfast, serving a fiery huevos rancheros alongside the more familiar biscuits and gravy fare.
“We try to keep the standards, but we add new things,” Kathy Langlais pointed out. “The customers keep coming back.”
It has long been an axiom in the food service industry that most new restaurants fail within a year. Survive the opening jitters and there is a good chance the place will gather a patina of comfort and familiarity.
And it”s the patina that attracts us back to the American diner. The Spot is not a glamorized recreation of the ”50s joint. It is not streamlined and the bright work–the chrome–is kept to a minimum. Rather, it feels like a little hangout that has weathered decades of food fads, even while the grill still carries some of its just installed glimmer.
“We try to do everything like the old days,” Vic Langlais said. “The attitude–it”s the correct attitude.”
Baseball? A rusted old Vega? A salad of arugula and kale? No, at the heart of American culture is a simple diner and the savor of ground beef.
Contact Dave Faries at 900-2016
