When people consider tossing fruit into a savory dish, they generally pick up something like an apple—unless, of course, the thought occurs around pear festival.
Otherwise, it”s back to citrus and tropical fruits. And, yes, tomatoes technically reside in the fruit category.
Why are pears such an afterthought?
“They lend themselves to spices, they work well with meat, salt and cheese,” said Jeremy Zabel, chef at Kelseyville”s Saw Shop, unable to explain the fruit”s also-ran status. “What I”ve learned over the years is that the flavor is in the skin. So I wash, I don”t peel.”
The Saw Shop is one of eight local restaurants featuring pears in the lead-up to the Kelseyville Pear Festival, set for Sept. 27. Zabel sautes them for the brandy glazed pork chop entree, tosses them with Feta in a salad and purees local Bartlett”s into a chutney to top the restaurant”s smoked pulled pork sandwich.
“They”re very versatile,” he observed. “We”re lucky to live in this area.”
Zabel understands, to some extent, the hesitancy to keep a stock of pears in the kitchen for use in meat dishes. Pears are not as durable as some other fruits and berries, tending to break down quicker. The varietals can also differ noticeably in flavor and texture. The popular Bosc, for instance, presents a firm flesh that works well for baking. The Asian pear can be treated more like an apple. The Comice—or Christmas pear—is more delicate, aromatic and quite juicy.
For his dishes, Zabel prefers the local Bartlett, especially the ruddier version. And, he pointed out, if you pick up a pear at it”s peak, the result can be beautiful, particularly in savory recipes. The Bartlett (known in France as the Williams” Bon Chretien, by the way) is valued by chefs for its willingness to absorb heat, its fragrance and its notable sweetness. For fall meat dishes, the profile works nicely.
“It”s a combination of salt mixed with fat, the acid and the sweetness—it”s a perfect balance,” he explained. “Everybody tosses around the word umami. Well, one of the components of umami is sweetness.”
He selected chutney as his festival presentation for that reason.
“It”s a good binder,” he said. “It draws flavors together.”
Of the other restaurants with festival-related menus, only Kelseyville”s Studebakers and Park Place in Lakeport attempt a savory dish. Studebakers is offering their Packard sandwich, pairing pears with caramelized onions, honey mustard and pork. Park Place opted for a pear and Gorgonzola pizza.
Nutriblends, Pogo”s Pizza, Lori”s Main Street Bakery, Running Creek Casino and Blue Wing Saloon are also participating in the festival menu effort. The featured dishes are available through the end of the month and perhaps beyond.
Zabel considers the pear a perfect match for fall, especially next to pork, duck or game. But he would also consider it with beef, if other complementary were introduced.
Is there anything for which the pear would be an unpearab … make that unbearable … pairing?
“I probably wouldn”t love it with seafood,” Zabel said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
