Writer”s Block is not as common as one might think.
I”m not addressing the frustrating lapse when … um … what”s the word? No, in this case, Writer”s Block refers to an intriguing series of wines put out by the folks at Steele.
The label prides itself on spinning less familiar grapes—Roussanne, Counoise—into rustic yet pleasantly complex bottles meant for casual enjoyment.
The 2012 Counoise, for instance, drapes dark berries and falling rose petals in a sensation similar to velvet or suede, and that”s just on the nose. Its expression on the palate is lighter, with juicy strawberry and a haze of smoke dominating before soft white pepper wells up at the finish. Meanwhile the Roussanne—also a 2012—approaches with aromas like a kitchen garden, with hints of mint, vanilla and a mass of herbs. The taste is fruitier, with white fruits and dried apricots in the fore.
“All of them are unique,” said Steele Wines general manager Steve Tylicki. While the brand is known for its care with the Steele label, for Writer”s Block “we have a distinctly different fermentation regime.”
The winemaker”s philosophy remains the same in the vineyards, guided by a minimalist approach true to each varietal. For Writer”s Block, however, they tend to employ cooler fermentation temperatures, less resting time in the barrel. They also spare the wine much exposure to new oak staves .
“Most don”t have more than 20 to 30 percent new oak,” Tylicki said.
Indeed, the Roussanne aged in 20 percent new Hungarian oak for eight months. For the Counoise it was a mere 15 percent, also for eight months.
Of course, the label does work with grapes of greater notoriety. Their 2011 Zinfandel survived a difficult growing season to yield a juicy, acidic wine with a backlash of earthy spice that curls around the edges, hissing, but not upsetting the balance. The 2012 Syrah presents intertwined sensations of musty berries, parched earth, uplifting floral highlights and acrid smoke in measures that are noticeable, though not overbearing.
It helps that 2012 was a near perfect season, particularly near harvest.
The Writer”s Block line also includes Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah and other varietals. These are food friendly wines that demand little of the table—pasta, chicken, burgers and other basic comforts pair well, depending upon the grape. Although, I must warn that the labels themselves may be a little distracting.
The back of each bottle of Writer”s Block comes with a story, you see. In the Counoise version, it begins with a cheeky “Bear with me. Normally words trip off my tongue like hundreds of curbside drunks trying to hail the same taxicab.” The Syrah declares, at one point, that “The bottle-temptress is green, smoky-green, green of lichens and cool thickets where lovers escape from parched Augusts and prying eyes.”
Despite moaning that “Nothing”s coming,” another bottle is obviously feigning writer”s block, as long as “If I could conjure the urgency of my heart into a single sentence or simply describe the hummingbird”s nectared lance spearing the contents of a blossom while a tom cat pads toward him through the peonies” is writer Robert Mailer Anderson”s version of being lost for words.
But you must read on, particularly when the Roussanne leads with “I was Pleasure-whoring in Elephant Alley one night when we accidently bumped up.”
Ah, Mickey Spillane, where are you when we need you?
Clearly Writer”s Block wines have something to say, both in the glass and on the bottle. And that”s about all I can think to add.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
