Joy Merrilees had her doubts as harvest began at Shannon Ridge”s vineyards in Lake County”s Red Hills.
“I was nervous picking them,” she said of the Cabernet grapes.
Perhaps everyone involved in the crafting of wine frets over the quality and quantity of their grape varietals as late summer approaches. An untimely rain, a cold spell—the vagaries of weather haunt those who monitor the vines. In 2008, spring chill damaged up to 40 percent of the Lake County crop. And 2011, in the words of Langtry Estate”s Eric Stine, “was a fiasco.”
This year many of the area”s wineries faced a tight schedule, as summer conditions pushed up harvest schedules, sometimes dramatically.
“I can tell you it is the earliest harvest on record—a month earlier,” Steele Wines” general manager Steve Tylicki observed.
Dan Van Pelt”s crew at Cache Creek rushed to pluck the Chardonnays, ahead of all other grapes. Langtry reached for the Sauvignon Blanc crop first, but hustled to the Chardonnay and Merlot vines immediately after, as their normal period of rest between varietal harvests evaporated. On the other hand, Alex Beloz at Obsidian Ridge reported spot on timing for many of his grapes.
But, as Merrilees discovered, any fear over the quality of Lake County”s 2014 vintage was unwarranted. Almost across the board, vineyards expect the year to produce some remarkable wines.
“The Sauvignon Blancs are amazing,” she said. “A lot of the Cabs I”m very happy with.”
Depending upon the vineyard and AVA (American Viticultural Area), winemakers anticipate strong showings from the Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and others, along with the Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet grapes. At Rosa D”Oro, which specializes in Italian varietals, Sangiovese, Dolcetto and Primitivo stand out.
“It”s going to be a great year,” Nick Buttitta of Rosa D”Oro said. “We had few problems with fungus or insects.”
Despite suffering through a third consecutive year of drought, the parched conditions caused little damage. In fact, most growers consider the calm spring and summer heat ideal.
“With irrigation there”s not much you do differently,” Stine pointed out. “The cold is more damaging than the heat.”
Drought does force those tending the vines to feed the roots more meticulously, more specifically. This, in turn, stunts the growth of new roots. And 100 degree temperatures may have affected the density of skin on some varietals. Otherwise, the lack of rain benefitted the grapes. Without moisture, damaging fungus could not form and thrive.
That wineries are reporting lower yields and less weighty clusters has little to do with weather conditions.
“Crops are down,” Terry Dereniuk of the Lake County Winery Association said. “But last year was a phenomenal year, so that”s do be expected.”
Indeed, 2013 set records in Lake County and other parts of California. The year before, yields were impressive in many AVAs, as well. Following strong production years, vines often reboot.
“To me, this is normal,” Stine agreed.
If anything, the lack of rain concentrated the flavors within the grapes. Brix are normal to slightly higher than the average range. But winemakers will be able to work with everything presented to them by this year”s crop.
“The grape chemistry has been good,” Tylicki said.
The sense of calm perhaps reflects the maturity of Lake County”s vineyards and labels. Wine from the AVAs in the county are gaining respect, in California and across the U.S.
“Our wines are leaps and bounds better than 10 or 15 years ago,” Dereniuk observed. “We haven”t made our best yet—that”s still to come. But it”s very exciting.”
Should harsh drought conditions continue, many of those in the industry say they will have to make changes in the way they operate. At Shannon Ridge, for example, they are looking into canopy management to shade the fruit.
The goal is to produce quality wines, of course. But that means a proactive approach to whatever nature throws at the vineyards—events often difficult to anticipate.
“The hard years are the years when your hand is forced,” Stine said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
