The Idle Irishman Stout came easily to the O”Meara brothers, Tim and Alex, rather easily.
Oh, it took some time to find the right balance between the dry Irish style and the sweeter stouts produced by American brewers. But otherwise the concept was a bit of a doddle, involving roasted barley, two kinds of malt, oats, flaked barley and whole vanilla beans, amongst other ingredients.
“We are Irish-Americans, so it works,” Alex O”Meara said with a laugh.
Indeed, the first beer from the vats at Lakeport”s soon-to-open O”Meara Brewing Company is something even those with an unnatural aversion to dark beer will appreciate. It appears opaque and brooding under a foam of sepia—a look one might expect to find in pints served at time-worn Irish pubs. Yes, there is a reminder on the nose of that tainted grain presence favored by fans of robust brews. But the aromas also tell of something a little more genteel, with hints of ground hazelnut, dark chocolate, toasted caramel.
The first sip proves the Idle Irishman”s sophisticated side. It is smooth at first, hardly offering a glimpse of the adventures waiting, as if the embodiment of that most interesting pitchman for another brand. When it hits, however, sensations of coffee, roasted nuts, caramel and an indefinable char swirl gently across the palate. There is, as well, a hint of bitterness that nestles into the mix, refusing to overpower the rest.
The finish is long and laced with vanilla, a result of the addition of whole beans during the fermentation process.
“Our beers are geared to be approachable, Tim O”Meara explained.
Hence the well-rounded, confident impression left by the stout. It”s a beer you can sit with for an evening, without one flavor killing your palate. That touch of oats and flaked barley contribute to this effect.
“The darker beers, on my palate, are flavored with grains—that”s what you pick up on,” Alex O”Meara observed.
The brothers have plans to open with four other varieties. They are brewing a blonde ale, and India pale ale, an English brown—and admittedly unusual choice—and a German-style Hefeweizen. However, the stout is the first to pour from their stainless vats. At just a tick over their target of 4.8 percent alcohol, it is an alluring start.
Of course, the two have been planning their new place for three years. Before that, they tested recipes at home, starting in college. The pub concept came after they realized they were producing home brew worthy of a bartender, a tap and a bar full of customers.
Unfortunately, O”Meara Bros. Brewing Company will not open for a few more weeks, perhaps four. When it does, it will join Kelseyville”s Kelsey Creek Brewing as the county”s signature brewpubs.
The O”Meara”s hope to be joined by others.
“We”d love to see 10 more,” Alex O”Meara said, pointing out that the growing number of Lake County wineries has only helped the local economy and quality of product.
“People are going on road trips to craft breweries,” Tim O”Meara added.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
