To hear Alex Tannous tell it, his mother gained a deft touch in the kitchen simply because she grew up with seven brothers and her mother needed the help.
If so, she learned well. Jimmy”s Deli ”n Taqueria, the family-owned spot in Lakeport, prepares some of the best Mediterranean street fare—not just in Lakeport, but in California. One could even argue their falafel, hummus and baba ghanoush ranks with favorites around the county.
“My mom makes it fresh every single day,” Tannous said. “We deep fry each falafel to order. It”s a time consuming process.”
Jimmy”s falafel, a pulse of chick peas (also known as garbanzo beans) and seasonings shaped until round, wears a crunchy, rustic deep brown shell wrapping a down to earth center leavened by nutty and herbal notes that cannot obscure a spicy bite. They serve it in the familiar street manner and as standalones on their Mediterranean platter.
“My favorite is the falafel,” Tannous admits. “There”s nothing better than falafel from scratch—you taste everything. And then there”s the hummus, of course.”
The hummus is an accomplishment, certainly: a calm dip prepared from beans, sesame and other basics that transforms into something richer as a whole. It can be found in prepackaged tubs at grocery stores—although that seems foolish to pair crudit?s with stiff brand name versions when Jimmy”s creamier, more intriguing hummus waits just down the road.
But the little deli”s baba ghanoush may be the real standout.
It starts with eggplant smoked on the grill until it becomes acrid and inviting, the equivalent of an old brick fireplace in the middle of winter on your palate. With spices, garlic, an acidic snap and toasted spices, the puree becomes something of an enigma: simple, yet irresistible—a mushy, lumpy mass that keeps tugging at your fork.
Baba ghanoush is popular across the Mediterranean, as is falafel. Hummus has become a global phenomenon. Dolmas lend influences of Greece and Turkey to the platter. Tabbouleh, of Lebanese origin, offers a bright and fresh counter to the other earthy flavors. The salad is like an orchestra warming up. Sweet tomatoes sound off for a moment. Brisk peppers drown them out. A flutter of herbal notes rises and falls. It”s a cacophony, yet full of wonder.
People in line at Jimmy”s will overlook American deli favorites and slow cooked tri tip beef in favor of this experience, but it wasn”t always the case.
“When we first opened, we didn”t expect people to order falafel,” Tannous recalled.
So the family began handing out the treat—as well as other Mediterranean items—for guests to sample.
“People would say ”what is that?”” Tannous said. “The next time they came in they”d say ”can we get some of that?” Now they are some of our best selling items.”
Americans living outside of urban ethnic enclaves have gone through similar transitions. Sushi, for example, went quickly from a curiosity (“raw fish? Ewww”) to nationwide standard, featured in some shopping mall food courts. Chinese dishes migrated from the chop suey houses of the 1940s to Sichuan, Hunan and other regional hotspots. There may even be a few restaurants in this country specializing in Xinjiang favorites.
It”s the same process when people encounter tahini-laced street foods from places like Istanbul, Ankara, Athens and Beirut.
“There”s a lot of good food out there,” Tannous observed.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
