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Pausing for tea and scones may seem a bit unusual, at least in Lake County. The afternoon ceremony is, after all, a tradition associated with the British upper classes of yore.

When the folks at Lakeport English Inn on Main St. don Victorian outfits and load up the serving tray with finger sandwiches, however, residents fill the bed and breakfast”s dining room. In fact, owner Karan Mackey expects up to 80 guests at each seating.

“People like being in a moment when you can just sip tea and relax,” she reasoned. “It”s just good food, shared.”

Afternoon tea–also known as “low tea” and, by Americans unfamiliar with the nuances, “high tea”–has always involved more than just a few cups of warm Earl Gray. Scones, tiny sandwiches, tarts and other small treats accompany the ritual, which began when impatient members of the upper crust could not wait for their 9 p.m. meal.

“I got hooked on tea right out of college when I went to Europe,” Mackey said.

For the holidays, she and her family re-create tea service from the Victorian era at Christmas time, complete with formal china, fancy hats and decorations. They welcome guests–reservations highly recommended–on Friday, Saturday and Sunday until close to Christmas, with seatings at noon and 3 p.m.

Afternoon tea coincides with the inn”s Victorian Faire, a celebration of holiday decorations and shopping. Most of the ornaments on display are for sale.

But tea and scones make for a unique and memorable experience.

Scones are merely a common quick bread, seasoned lightly to be sweet or savory. Lakeport English Inn prepares them with just a touch of sugar. Unlike so many store-bought scones (or, frankly, those served in restaurants) that must be chiseled, they are rich and moist, and they welcome both jam and cream with a warm embrace.

The tray also includes a comfortable and slightly spicy bread pudding, hearty quiche prepared with bacon and cucumber sandwiches.

Yes, cucumber sandwiches. There is a reason nobody goes out for exquisite British food. Yet the little bites from Mackey and crew are airy, with just a snap of earthy sweetness–in other words raised to as high a level as possible for such a basic sandwich.

“It doesn”t have to be formal,” Mackey said of tea service. “In England it”s super casual.”

Yes, but that doesn”t deter the inn from making an effort. Gingerbread carries enough earthy sharpness to cause one to forget the muted cakes sold under that name at other places. Lemon bars also bite back, but with less ferociousness than one might expect. They are elegant bars, sheathing a citrus blade. And the shortbread melts delicately, leaving a trace of lavender on the palate.

Served alongside plenty of tea, the light meal gives reason to slow down and take notice of the world–and the people–around you.

“Slowing down,” Mackey reiterated. “It”s just taking the time.”

Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016

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