Sol Rouge only hints at its Lake County presence, at least on the winery’s website. Maybe to outsiders, the San Francisco tasting room and connection to Napa are more important, to be sure.
Ah, but according to Wine Enthusiast magazine, Sol Rouge’s Lake County Cabernet edges its Napa Valley version by a full point.
Not much of a margin, certainly. But it is still a clear 93-92 victory for the 2010 estate wine from the red soil near Mt. Konocti. The magazine made the local varietal an “editor’s choice” designation.
As the scores would suggest, the two wines are quite similar. Both are genteel, plush as cashmere, yet full bodied. Both show off fruit, chocolate and other characteristics associated with California Cabs. But the 2010 Sol Rouge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Lake County has a much softer grasp on the wallet. And it opens with a big “wow.”
On the nose, it is as compelling and complex and jarring as Melville’s “Moby Dick.” The first line is a memorable combination of fruit and suede and overall ripeness. Then it reveals more subtle notes: weighty plum, chocolate, dark bread and a snap of mint. The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet from the same winemaker, Bryan Kane, seems lighter at first, before sinking into licorice and chocolate bliss.
Not really sure which literary classic it resembles, but it is indeed a good one.
Sip them side by side and the Napa’s sophistication is evident. White pepper darts throughout as plum, leather, dark berries, bitter chocolate and gentle vanilla vie for attention en echelon. But the Lake County wine is equally impressive — or moreso, according to enthusiasts. The bursting fruit is balanced by an aged, dried, depth. It’s something that will even turn the heads of those who claim to despise rich reds.
You know, the old Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay crowd.
If there is a notable difference it can be found in the tannic structure of the Napa Valley Cab. The neighboring grapes also carry a bite, again resembling licorice. The Lake County varietal is from a single estate, while Kane drew from two vineyards on Howell Mountain to create his other masterpiece.
Oh, and there’s the price.
Sol Rouge rates its 2010 Napa Valley Cab fairly, judging by the notice it earned from national publications and the going price of other stellar bottles. At $75, however, it drains an $43 more from one’s precious credit than the 2010 Lake County version.
And the two are separated by just a single point.
Kane can clearly nudge the best from California vineyards, here or there. The two Cabs add to a string of 90-plus labels he’s produced over the years.
Both are satiny and lush and worthy of a spot on any shelf. For the wine-buying public, however, one four letter word is worth a few more dollars than the other.
