Shortly after I arrived in Lake County a friend who happens to own a few fashionable restaurants and an equally swank wine room in another state offered a backhanded compliment to local producers. The wines from this area, he said, were “improving.”
He passed the first level toward the Master Sommelier title, so I”m somewhat inclined to believe him on such matters. Only 220 people around the world have completed the exams, meaning it”s significantly more difficult an achievement than, say, brain surgeon.
By comparison, the world is crawling with rocket scientists.
“Improving” is one of those clever words, committing very little in the way of praise while still intending something vaguely positive — like hearing a coach say “better, but still not good.”
Not that I heard that during a stellar high school career. Nope, the coaches always flattered me for my unique interpretation of the playbook and the unconventional way in which I played my position.
Yet it is becoming apparent that Lake County wines deserve a little more than a faint “improving” from aficionados. Local labels, after all, kept stride with some of the nation”s best bottles at this year”s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
On Friday afternoon I thought it might be worthwhile to scratch down a few examples, wines that ended up on the prestigious roll. There was Guenoc and Shannon Ridge, Steele and Gregory Graham, Shed Horn, Dalliance, Wildhurst, Chacewater, Brassfield, Obsidian Ridge, Six Sigma, Writer”s Block and … holy whatever that word coaches always screamed in my general direction, the names kept coming.
Scrolling through the list of medalists, I spotted the phrase “Lake County” or “Red Hills” or one of the other viticultural areas claimed by the county 126 times. A total of 27 Lake County bottles earned 111 medals. An additional 17 out of county labels received 25 hunks of gold, silver or bronze for wines using grapes grown exclusively in Lake County.
Langtry Estates” Guenoc Sauvignon Blanc from 2013 won Best of Class, as did a 2013 Chardonnay from Shannon Ridge, a 2012 Merlot by Chacewater and Brassfield Estate”s blend known as High Valley Eruption. An outsider, Matchbook, picked up Best of Class for a Cabernet from Lake County grapes.
To earn Best of Class, a wine first had to achieve Double Gold status. For a Double Gold, every member of a four judge panel agreed the bottle deserved the most precious of metals.
That”s not bad. Wines by Shannon Ridge, Steele, Gregory Graham and Shed Horn ended up with Double Golds. There were seven more lugging home gold, just from the pool of county labels.
And that”s from almost 6,500 entries — the largest field ever.
I”ve tried several of these honored wines already. Yeah, I may have a problem, though I consider it a sincere affection for quality and a humble appreciation of the vintner”s ancient art, which sounds much better.
It may not be my place to venture an upgrade of Lake County wines in the national consciousness, but I suggest that these labels have improved to a point where they should be accepted next to the great names from around the nation. A few dozen experts seem to agree with me on this.
First time that phrase has ever appeared in print, I believe.
Yes, there”s the drought. I”ve heard predictions that summer will bring even more putrid algae. Potholes batter our cars to smithereens and unemployment refuses to follow national trends. But Lake County may be able to ride the success of local winemakers. And if wine tourism picks up, more people will notice the produce, the pears and walnuts, the good restaurants, the small batch breweries, the biking and hiking and everything else on offer in the area. We”re even Bieber-free, as far as I know.
Hard to improve on that last bit.
