In terms of northern California wines, people are beginning to suggest that 2013 is a very good vintage.
It doesn”t take much effort to reach that conclusion — not really.
The 2013 Cuvee Chardonnay from Steele Wines captured Double Gold in its category at this year”s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. It dusted off such names as Rodney Strong, Clos du Bois and Columbia Crest and edged in the judges” minds local Gold winners Dalliance and Playtime.
The Steele Chardonnay presents itself as a bright yet dapper wine, with a lean straw color releasing aromas of tropical fruit, white pepper and fresh cream, with just a whiff of something moodier in the background, like dusty cinnamon.
On the palate, the banana boat flavors intensify. There is pineapple and papaya, with other juicy white fruits thrown in alongside. These are followed by more familiar notes, such as red apple and lemon zest and a hazy sensation akin to flaky pie crust and earthy spice. The experience is uplifting, without shaking free of the contemplative nature of a top rated bottle.
“It”s a lovely wine,” observed Steele”s Donna Roumiguiere. “I drink it all the time.”
Jed Steele and his winemaking team put quite a bit of work into the cuvee, however. They pooled grapes from six different vineyards spread around northern California over a monthlong span of the 2013 harvest season. Taking advantage of the morning fog”s work on vines in the Santa Maria Valley, the organically tended crop from Lolonis” vineyards in Mendocino County and more to produce the award winner.
The harvest that year was big and they picked at an average of 25 brix. Steele aged the product in French oak, 80 percent of it used stock. The wine snaps quickly, leaving a clean and dry finish of lingering citrus. There is little indication of the hefty, buttery Chardonnays of old cliches.
In the price range — Steele doubled up on gold in the $15 to $19.99 category — it might be difficult to find a better option, obviously.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
