You know what to expect from a typical bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, right? Lots of grapefruit and crisp citrus, a little melon and perhaps some grassy notes — those are common reference points, adding richer impressions like burnished vanilla if the wine rested in oak.
Well, Wildhurst’s 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc breaks from the norm. Oh, there’s no mistaking its pedigree. The acidic fruit, the herbaceous character, the refreshing smack of honeydew place the wine within the varietal’s bounds. And yet …
The distinction between Wildhurst and the crowded middle becomes apparent almost as soon as you raise the glass. Missing on the nose is the prickling grapefruit aroma. Instead, a box of freshly cut apples fills the air, layered over olfactory flashes of a tropical fruit stand. More prominent, however, are impressions of grass and green tea. Beyond this, a bedrock of, well, rock provides a foundation.
And this is before you take that first sip.
Winemaker Banyon Kirkendall points out that the 2013 growing season burned a little more tropical character into the grapes than is usual for Wildhurst’s vineyards. But he hardly complains.
“That was a perfect year,” he said.
Kirkendall took advantage of conditions, coaxing the wine’s flavors by harvesting in three stages. He picked the first batch of grapes at less than 21 brix, taking advantage of their acidity. The final harvest measured a sweeter 23.5 brix. He then fermented separately in stainless steel before working out just the right blend.
The result continues on the palate, as fresh apple and juicy melon give way to grassy herbs a grounded mineral quality. Yet there is a snap to this wine — a brisk acidic finish and lighthearted nature. Even without entering into the flavor profile game of swirling and sniffing, just catching a whiff and taking a sip instantly brightens your mood.
Kirkendall seems humbled by the wine. He worked with Mark Burch, now at nearby Chacewater, to learn the whims of Wildhurst’s Kelseyville vineyards before taking the reins.
“Mark Burch was a Sauvignon Blanc master,” Kirkendall said. “I think I’ve been able to keep the consistency.”
Indeed, Wildhurst’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc is already an award winner. More important, it is a perfect complement to a warm spring or summer day.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
