Things were quite simple, if the old cliches are to be believed. A man — that is, a “real” man of the Don Draper or Humphrey Bogart ilk — might guzzle martinis at lunch and order a hefty red wine with steak at dinner, but should never be caught kicking back on a warm afternoon with a cool pink wine.
Of course, there was some justification for the scorn directed toward Rose. Jugs of cheap, cloying mass market stuff labeled “white Zinfandel” taught Americans that pink wines belonged only in the hands of novice drinkers. The fact that good, dry Rose should be opened within three years contradicted all the talk of fine wine and aging. So the versatile Rose ended up in the vilified lump as Boone’s Farm.
Yet Rose remained a valued style in Europe, especially along the Mediterranean. The bright fruit and crisp character make Rose the perfect wine to pair with a sizzling sun. And its food friendly nature lends Rose to large gatherings and tables full of appetizers.
So Americans finally seem to be coming around, thanks to a few daring winemakers willing to challenge the notion that all pink wine is mind-numbingly sweet.
“It has a new following — a younger market,” observed Scott Simkover of Smiling Dogs Ranch near Kelseyville.
Simkover’s first attempt at a pink wine, the 2013 Smiling Dogs Ranch Rose Zin, shows just why Rose is gaining in popularity. Served slightly chilled, the aromas are refreshing — a bowl of freshly picked cherries and stone fruit, with faint traces of honeydew. Take a sip and strawberry emerges alongside the other flavors, supported by a little wisp of mineral and pomace.
The finish is brisk, with much more fruit than sweetness lingering.
“This has slight residual sugars,” Simkover said. “A little sugar goes a long way.”
Simkover used Zinfandel grapes from a neighboring vineyard located right outside his back window. He used the press technique, limiting the process to three hours, or “just enough for the wine to have a little color and flavor from the skin.” He then fermented in stainless steel and followed his usual method for white wine.
The 2013 Smiling Dogs Ranch Rose Zin is a bottle for the warming months. There is a surprising, effervescent snap to the wine, though it is not a bubbly. It would also match up well with spicy fare.
More importantly, it might cause people to discard the old cliches, once and for all.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
