Martin Pohl likes to let nature take its course.
The winemaker for Beaver Creek Vineyards outside of Middletown adheres to an organic, biodynamic ethic. Yes, organic means he steers clear of Roundup or other things ending in the dreaded suffix ‘cides. But biodynamics? Well, that means Pohl is a deist, at least when it comes to growing.
That’s right, he winds up the clock according to the seasons then sits back and watches it all happen. Pohl even relies on native yeast to finish his wine.
Is he living on the edge?
“That’s the rumor,” he said, “but I’ve never had to stop fermentation.”
The 2013 Beaver Creek Petite Sirah is an example of his, well, lack of interference. Even on the nose the wine is a siren song of ripe fruit, earthy spice and haunting licorice. Dark cherry deepened by bursting plum hit the palate first, followed by more common fruits and a lingering, cinnamon-spiked finish
For all the talk about organic practices, Pohl’s plot of land outside of Middletown is rare. Only 38,000 acres of vineyards in the U.S. count as chemical free. By contrast, Spanish vintners work 200,000 organic acres. Pohl even refuses to add sulfites to stabilize the product.
For a wine allowed to grow wild, with minimal intrusion, this is a beautifully balanced sipper.
Pohl allowed the 2013 to develop on the vine, picking in two stages at just over 26 brix then correcting with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon — also organic — and a spell in French oak. He is convinced the Petite Sirah will show well 20 years down the line.
Yet it is quite nice right now.
The winemaker gives credit to the growing season, more than any slight manipulation on his part. Indeed, Lake County’s 2013 vintages have taken awards away from San Francisco and several other contests.
“The year was just perfect,” Pohl said. “For us, it was the best year since 2007.”
He’s right, too — the tannic structure of Beaver Creek’s 2013 will allow it to develop intrigue and nuance, if stored properly. There is no shame, however, in opening it now to pair with red meat, pork chops, grilled chicken or to enjoy by itself. Perhaps that’s why Pohl calls it an “unusual” wine.
So — complexity, enjoyability, a little bit of the good old food friendliness …
Pohl just shakes his head. He knows the 2013 Petite Sirah is a good wine. What he looks to is the natural input.
“What I’m proud of is that it’s organic, unfiltered, using native yeast — there’s nothing added,” he said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
