LAKEPORT >> Momentum 2015, the region’s second annual wine industry seminar presented by the Lake County Winegrape Commission (LCWC), once again attracted a wide range of growers, small and large from nearly all appellations within the county. They learned that not only are the region’s Sauvignon Blanc grapes rated highly, but also the varietal may be set for a boom.
The seminar held at Soper Reese Theatre kicked off with an informative keynote presentation titled, “The Outlook for Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc,” by Christian Miller of Full Glass Research. He shared results from a survey of grape buyers, his analysis of market trends, and specific opportunities for Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.
Miller surveyed 64 North Coast grape buyers which, when adjusted for respondent size and grape usage, covered an estimated 55 percent of Lake County’s supply to the market.
Of particular note, 70 percent of respondents rated the quality of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc as “substantially better” or “slightly better,” compared to other coastal appellations, with nearly a quarter of respondents indicating the quality of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc is “substantially better.”
LCWC Chair Peter Molnar expanded on Miller’s analysis and shared a thought-provoking view “out over the horizon line” as to where Lake County could be as a wine region in 10 years. Discussion focused on two key points: achieving widespread vineyard sustainability certification across the region and taking a leadership position as a premier Sauvignon Blanc winegrowing region.
A panel of winegrape growers considered the future direction for the Lake County wine region and the potential for leadership with the Sauvignon Blanc varietal. Panelists included Christian Ahlmann, vice president and vineyard manager for Six Sigma Ranch; Keith Brandt, director of compliance for Shannon Ranches; Cameron Lyeth, sales manager for Beckstoffer Vineyards; Jonathan Walters, director of farming for Brassfield Estate; and David Weiss, owner of Bella Vista Farming Company.
The panel exchanged insights into current winegrape pricing and the demand for Sauvignon Blanc grapes, particularly from wineries in Napa where upper end pricing for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes at up to $6,000 per ton makes it less appealing to grow a lower-priced varietal like Sauvignon Blanc.
Lyeth emphasized that those wineries will be seeking a good alternative source for Sauvignon Blanc, with Lake County in prime position. “They’re going to be looking for out-of-district supply,” Lyeth said. “There’s no question about that.”
Walters agreed and suggested the key to avoiding becoming a commodity is to let winemakers in Napa know that “they don’t need to put Sauvignon Blanc in the ground, that they can get it from here” and to encourage more small brands to put Lake County on the label.
Another theme was sustainable certification. Brandt shared his experience with third-party sustainability certification, which Shannon Ranches vineyards achieved last year, and encouraged audience members whose vineyards aren’t yet certified to take a look into the program.
“It was actually a simpler process than you might think,” he said. “You may be pleasantly surprised to find that probably 75 to 80 percent of your current farming practices fall into that sustainable category.”
When asked about labor, panelists concurred that anywhere from 90 to 100 percent of the area’s vineyard workers live in Lake County. “Approximately 100 percent of our workers are local,” Weiss said. “Around harvest, you might have a few (from out of the area), but I would say it’s less than 10 percent.”
Ahlmann noted that his vineyard manager is currently enrolled in the Master Vigneron Academy, a professional development program presented by LCWC specifically designed for vineyard managers and supervisors. “He absolutely loves it,” he said. “He’s going out and seeing some of the great vineyards in Lake County and also Napa and Sonoma, and it’s a great experience for him.”
Molnar said, “Having an educated, really experienced workforce is the key to growing good grapes.” Nearly 40 participants over four years have gone through the program, which is taught in Spanish and led by LCWC Education Director Paul Zellman.
The panel also addressed audience questions on the topic of water by referencing the “Water Stewardship in Drought Conditions” seminar, which had been held just days earlier. Molnar referenced comments made by speakers at that seminar who indicated that Lake County is in relatively good shape because the region has a “proactive view of water management” and because it has a lot of advantages “geologically and climatically” with respect to the area’s aquifers.
Following the panel, Joy Merrilees, Director of Winemaking & Production at Shannon Ridge Family of Wines, led a technical tasting of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, discussing points of distinction, style, and price points with Jason Moulton, Winemaker at Brassfield Estate Winery, and Eric Stine, Winemaker at Langtry Estate & Vineyard.
