Mark Burch is not one to over think his wines. Particularly when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, he prefers to play only with exposure to sunlight and other time honored vineyard techniques.
But he admits to a bit more brain work than normal when creating Chacewater’s 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, adding a splash of Muscat Cannelli, then a little more and a bit more, until he settled on a 1.8 percent blend.
“I couldn’t not do it,” Burch said.
What caught his attention was the load of tropical flair bursting from the 2014 grapes. After considering the potential, Burch decided a little boost of residual sugar would showcase the fruit.
As it turns out, that fraction of Muscat makes for a wonderfully expressive Sauvignon Blanc.
Swirling the wine unleashes mixed aromas of grapefruit and pineapple — a fruit bowl sensation. You might just nod at first. After all, these are common to the varietal. Yet behind this radiant introduction are hints of something more beguiling: mashed banana, for instance, freshly cut lemongrass and the gleaming scythe itself.
Yes, there is a mineral trace.
On the palate the fruit is fresh and crisp. Because of the sugars, the flavors gush and never really snap off. The tropical character lingers, but whispers of herbal bitterness and earthy stone also emerge. There is a surprising depth and longevity to the wine, yet it retains its bright, acidic nip.
“I’m real pleased with it,” Burch said. “There’s nothing in your face. It’s very subtle.”
Most of the grapes Burch used to produce this wine came from a vineyard near Upper Lake known for revved acidity levels and leaned out grassiness. The rest he harvested from Big Valley just north of Kelseyville.
The growing season in 2014 was tight, thanks in a large measure to the drought. But there were few heat spikes other than the summer norm and no harvest surprises. The grapes leveled off with brix in the low 20s. To advance the fruit character, he kept the wine in stainless steel, bottling just two weeks ago.
And, of course, he dabbled in some Muscat-matics.
“It needed that extra residual sugar,” Burch said. “I took this right to .5. I wanted the fruit to be deep, but not floral.”
The wine is spectacular now, even as it recovers from bottle shock. Chacewater plans on releasing it on June 6.
Yes, you must wait. But Chacewater’s 2014 Sauvignon Blanc is worth it.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
