Legend has it the margarita was invented by a group of tourists in Mexico killing time and brain cells with a “create a new cocktail” contest. At least that’s one of the many origin stories bounced around.
There are likely as many tales about the first margarita as there are variations to the drink. Originally a balancing act between fresh squeezed lime juice, Cointreau or another orange liqueur and fine tequila shaken and poured into a cocktail glass, one is likely to find at least three different options in a single restaurant.
“I like the mango margarita,” said Celia Buckner, a bartender at TNT. “I don’t know why, but it’s really refreshing.”
The Lakeport institution lists a dozen margaritas on their drinks menu, and they will adapt any of them to suit a customer’s preferences. Bar staff can build one with different brands of tequila, with aged tequilas, with Grand Marnier or Patron Citronge in place of Cointreau, with different fruits and berries …
“And then you get into the blender stuff,” said Bill Chapman, bartender at The Saw Shop in Kelseyville.
That’s right, thanks to the Slurpee machine, the Dallas restaurateur (Mariano Martinez) with the foresight — or the villainy, depending upon one’s perspective — to adapt it and Jimmy Buffett’s song, frozen margaritas outsell the more traditional versions in many restaurants.
TNT keeps a frozen margarita machine running, alongside a long bar of tequilas for more proper cocktails. At The Saw Shop they eschew the slushy kind and stick with two options.
The most popular is what they call the Back Bargarita, a blend of reposado tequila, Patron Citronge, fresh squeezed citrus and a splash of orange juice. Chapman opted for Cintronge over Cointreau or Grand Marnier because of its peppery hint.
“It brightens the margarita without adding that sugary flavor,” he explained.
The other option is a skinny margarita (called the String Bikini) created from tequila, lime juice and agave nectar.
“You get that nice tartness,” Chapman pointed out. “You know you’re drinking tequila.”
That balance is the key to a great margarita. Tart lime lends a brisk, quenching character. Cointreau cuts the puckering tartness just a bit, providing sweetness and a deeper tone to the citrus. Grand Marnier, another traditional option, contributes a bitter zest. A good reposado or anejo tequila sets the base — grassy, earthy, smoky or a combination of all, depending upon the brand.
You should notice all of the elements.
The only thing left is that eternal question, salt or no salt. And for Buckner, the answer is simple.
“Frozen, I don’t use salt,” she said. “If I drink a regular margarita I have salt.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
