You know those dishes showcasing a chef’s finesse? The way Heston Blumenthal adds nuance to a centuries-old crab recipe by teasing it with pickled lemon, sea purslane and smoked roe, or the ethereal experience that results when Massimo Bottura works with foie gras, hazelnuts and aged balsamic vinegar?
Well, sometimes you don’t want any of that. Sometimes you want a heaping plate of stuff, piled up in a way that would frighten you in saner moments.
The Irish nachos plate at Old World Tavern in Lakeport fills this craving perfectly — French fries smothered in cheese, jalapeno slices, sour cream, crumbled bacon and sauteed garlic. It is at once ridiculous and irresistible.
“Insane? I wouldn’t go that far,” said Old World chef Michael Love. “It’s crafty — cheesy, salty, spicy. It’s a win-win-win.”
Starting on a familiar note, Old World’s fries are cushy and golden brown. Hand cut every day, they do not need the support of other ingredients, but the help keeps coming. The pickled sting of jalapenos slices into the soothing richness of the sour cream, itself capable of dousing more potent elements. Here and there the pungent bite of garlic smacks your palate. Only the smoky meat creates a homey, acrid layer that creeps into your senses while the other flavors take a less subtle approach.
It seems wrong, yet you can’t stop reaching for the next bite. To admit they are good would call into question your professed love for more elegant dishes. But they are certainly good.
“It’s one of our best sellers,” Love pointed out.
The downtown tavern did not come up with the idea. That honor goes to a restaurant in the Dallas area — at least according to legend. The only relationship to Ireland is that base of French fries (which would, of course, be referred to as chips). And though when we think of potatoes, Idaho and Ireland come to mind, the ubiquitous spuds did not even travel to the old world until the early 1700s.
But the folks at Old World Tavern recognized a great fit. Order the Irish nachos with a hearty Guinness or a crisp cider or anything in between. It’s a dish made for a worn wooden table, battered brick walls and a few pints.
“That’s what I enjoy about cooking here,” Love said. “It’s straight ahead food.”
And often that’s just what you want.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
