They say it’s never wise to burn a candle at both ends and, in literal terms, that may be true. As a lifestyle choice it may just be possible, however, thanks to a beer called the Little Moon at O’Meara Bros. Brewing Company in Lakeport.
“It’s kind of my own unique style — a session amber,” said Tim O’Meara.
The phrase “session beer” applies to brews both low on alcohol and high on flavor, the sort of beer you can enjoy through an entire evening with little harm at the end. And Little Moon indeed fits the description.
Although a daunting mahogany in color, it packs a gentle 4.5 percent alcohol punch — a tap, really — and crisp, citrus finish. Yet it hardly lacks in character, thanks to the addition of fresh ginger, orange zest and honey during the brewing process.
The result is almost tropical: aromas of orange and mango and toasted spice, with follow through nicely on the palate. The flavor profile is bright and sharp inside a sturdier frame as the earthy sweetness from honey strains to rein in the more assertive notes. It sways back and forth between a winter warmer and refreshing summer brew before the snap of ginger and citrus win out.
Admittedly, far too many so-called session beers emphasized low alcohol content at the expense of taste. For a time, the phrase was considered an insult — that is until craft brewers put more thought to the matter. O’Meara based the Little Moon on one of his heftier ambers, but substituted honey for a portion of the malt. This allowed him to slash alcohol content while maintaining sweetness and color (he employed both two row and caramel malt). To counter the bitterness of ginger and orange peel he added cluster hops in the middle of the boil, which accounts for the impression of pan tossed spice.
“It makes for a nice balance,” O’Meara said.
Indeed, Little Moon is defined more by the intricate relationship between all the shades of bitter, sweet and elusive earthiness than its low alcohol impact. Both dark and bright, it’s an impressive beer.
Of course, it is also perfect for a cool drinking session on a blazing afternoon.
“When summer hits I like a light beer,” O’Meara pointed out. “It’s one of my favorites.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
