You might not guess it, watching Carl White labor over a smoker and a wood-fired stove at Danny’s Roadside Kitchen, but he spent much of his adult life as an industrial mechanic, working on heavy equipment all over northern California. A Texas native who worked in Sacramento, White moved to the area five years ago and bought a little spot for his restaurant. Named for his grandfather (Dan), brother (Danny) and daughter — yes, Danielle —the Lower Lake barbecue joint also features burgers, chicken, steak and other meats. But you won’t find a freezer. He purchases almost everything fresh.
1. From a mechanic to a cook — how does that work?
This has always been my passion. When I’d get home from work, I would cook for my family. My grandfather owned a restaurant and I would flip burgers at 8 years old. It’s what I want to do. I love it.
2. Why barbecue?
I think it’s a lost art. People barbecue at home, but with gas — that’s not real barbecue. There two levels, and when you get a chance to get real slow smoked food, that’s what I mean.
3. There’s barbecue and there’s grilling.
They are two different things. It’s not just me — whoever does barbecue, that is what it’s meant to be.
4. Carolina, Memphis, Kansas City …
Texas! Amarillo, tumbleweeds, brisket. Texas would be my favorite style. I do brisket — it’s up on the board — but people were mad at me at first. In California people like tri-tip. In Texas they don’t know what that is. But I also do tri-tip now.
5. A lot of people are adamant that their style is the best.
I think barbecue is barbecue. The sauce or the rub or the wood changes it. I can do the same meat, but they would put a different sauce on it in Carolina, but it’s still the same barbecued meat — but they’ll say theirs is the best in the world. To me, it’s all personal taste. Sometimes it’s best to be a politician.
6. How do you get all of this right?
The whole thing? [Gestures at restaurant]. This is the toughest thing I’ve every done in my life. It’s the most demanding job. I do my shopping every morning, then I get the smoker fired up. Every day is a new day. It’s relentless.
7. How long does it take to learn the smoker, to get meat right?
Fifteen years of practicing, smoking different ways, trying different rubs. It takes years to become an expert — unless I’m just really slow.
8. No freezer. Is that an advantage or disadvantage?
It’s an advantage?
9. Why is that?
A lot of restaurants will cook and what they don’t sell they will freeze. I like to keep everything fresh. But it would be nice to have ice.
10. When you get home or go out, do you eat ribs?
I go home every night and eat a bowl of cereal. No ribs. No meat. If I get a chance to go out for a good steak dinner, to go to Blue Wing — I love that place — I will. But at home, no.
