As a brewer, Ron Chips follows two rules. First, always dare to try something new. Second, with a few exceptions, there are no rules.
This rogue spirit led to the Le Wee Wee Saison at Kelsey Creek Brewing in Kelseyville, his first attempt at a Belgian farmhouse ale — and hopefully not his last.
Cloudy, redolent of earthy yeast, dry spice, creamy malt and zesty stone fruit, it promises more than the typical summer brew. Indeed, the saison opens with an intriguing combination of coriander, grain and banana softened by the ale’s rich, creamy mouthfeel. It is almost reminiscent of a light curry, at least until vigorous nucleation punches through the serenity. A reserved bitterness also breaks through, followed by vague fruit, burnished orange peel and a hint of juicy lemon. The long finish is draped in citrus and spice.
It is a hearty ale, yet also a brisk one. The saison would be welcome on a gloomy evening and bright summer Saturday.
One would be forgiven for calling Chips an old hand at the farmhouse style.
“I was pretty happy with it,” he said. “That’s what we were going for — refreshing, spring, summer.”
Because it was Chips’ first foray into the diverse style, he sought the help of Jason Chavez of Seabright Brewery in Santa Cruz. They worked with native yeast, a little malted wheat, zest, spice and Grains of Paradise. They also used Jarrylo hops, an aromatic addition that fit nicely with the flavor profile, if not brewing tradition.
“Maybe it’s not brewed to the style guidelines,” Chips admitted, “but you need to color outside the lines.”
Oh, the pair did rely on Belgian malt (and lend the finished product a cheeky play on a French language phrase), but the ale sheds more light on Chips and his experimental style than European tradition. And that can be a very good thing.
“It was something I’d never done,” Chips said. “And as a brewer, by challenging yourself to do new things, you learn things that help your other beers.”
So Le Wee Wee bodes well for the little brewpub’s future. Kelsey Creek’s saison is a beer worth a good, relaxing evening. It is not something to hurry through.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
