Miguel Silva takes a Spartan approach to his red wines.
“The less handling the better,” he explained. “Nothing fancy, just leave it alone.”
But a bottle of his Don Angel 2013 Sangiovese might cause one to ponder that point. If the winemaker keeps his hands off the wine as it develops, just what force stepped in to create such a pleasing finished product?
On the nose, the wine is almost demure at first — a delicate hint of mid-season strawberries ripening on the vine, a whiff of leaves as if from a summer breeze. Yet there is a heavier note, as well: a solid, steady impression of rustic spice and potpourri.
The first sip comes therefore as something of a surprise. A savory, earthy — perhaps even musky — weight envelopes the palate before sinking beyond perception. Rich clay and charred tobacco trace through this, but the beautiful burrowing sensation is momentary. The backwoods character is soon draped by nice ripe strawberry and fresh figs. On the second sip, this lighter aspect steps in a little sooner. Again on the next.
So the Don Angel 2013 Sangiovese tempts you to call it a fruity wine. Yet it flouts the rules, showing first the traits you would expect from an older, heartier version. But the finish, while lasting, reinforces the idea of a lighter bodied, approachable bottle.
“It’s really friendly,” is how Silva describes this surprising balance. “It loves to play in your mouth.”
That’s why “pleasing” may be the simplest measure. The 2013 is exceptional in its demeanor — pleasant, fruity, enticing. It dances in colorful spotlights on a dark, tannic stage.
Silva achieved this by … well, what he said. Instead of working out a figure for new and used oak, he let the wine sit in barrels so old and worn they could impart little more than natural oxidation. He started fermentation at 80 degrees then backed it down gradually, occasionally sampling pH levels.
Nothing fancy, indeed. Yet somehow receptive to elegant settings.
“I’m really happy with this,” Silva said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
