Sampling Rosa d’Oro’s Tuscan Blend olive oil, one might assume Nick Buttitta walks the orchards checking to see when each varietal might reach its peak. It would seem reasonable to imagine him spending late hours working out just the right amounts of Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino and Maurino olives to include in the mix.
But such assumptions would be wrong.
Buttitta prefers a more straightforward approach. He mixed the trees together when he planted years ago. Now he simply harvests the different olives all at once and hauls them to the mill, allowing nature to answer for the finished product.
“You can see the variation in ripeness when you harvest,” Buttitta explained. “But it balances out.”
At first the oil tastes almost buttery — rich and smooth, with a mild grassy yield. But a wave of crushed peppercorns and bitter grass follows, quickly ramping up the intensity. For a moment your palate darts around, trying to comprehend what is a complex yet aggressively pungent blast. Then it all settles into a rich, mellow cushion.
Rosa d’Oro’s Tuscan Blend is a beautiful olive oil, particularly for those who crave something that will turn a routine dip of bread into an experience.
“Not everybody likes that sharp, peppery bite,” Buttitta admitted. “If people don’t know it’s supposed to be desirable, it may put them off.”
It is indeed bold, desirable and composed, even when at its most strident.
The oil finds balance in nature, without much human intervention other than milling and pressing. Leccino and Pendolino olives provide the buttery richness, with the former adding a soothing sweetness, a harness for the more assertive varietals. Frantoio is mostly responsible for the bitter, pungent bite, backed by a grassy note. Maurino reinforces the peppery character.
And that’s just the way things should work out.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
