An open parking space is as rare as words of praise for Sepp Blatter. At the counter and down the aisles customers mill about, waiting to order — then waiting as kitchen staff prepare the meal.
“It’s crazy,” said owner Juan Ramos in a rare moment of peace.
Kelseyville’s newest taqueria — La Monarca — is a popular spot around lunch time, and has been since the place opened almost two weeks ago. Just an hour after he opened the doors for the first time, a crowd converged on the counter.
The carnitas and al pastor tacos, as well as the tray of meaty chicharrones prepared that morning, explain why people willingly endure the lunch crush.
Tacos al pastor revel in the natural sweetness of roasted pork. Mild spices create an earthy foundation for shreds of meat while oozing juices lend a rich, leisurely mouthfeel. Even a spoonful of their wonderfully alarming hot salsa cannot conceal the gentle savor.
Carnitas offers pork in another guise. The meat is simmered and then browned with great gusto. Where the al pastor appears almost cushy, the carnitas carry a crispy veneer. Burned into this are husky, bittersweet notes scorched from the pan and riding over the gentle nature of pork.
It’s a beautiful sensation, capable of converting fans of carne asada, lengua or even al pastor. You forget the wait times and the unadorned surroundings.
Seating is tucked in a back room because La Monarca is also a market and butcher shop, as well as an offshoot of the equally adored spot in Lower Lake. The size of its kitchen sets the new place apart. Over the next few weeks, Ramos plans to expand the menu and add both breakfast and dinner service.
For now the menu is simple, featuring tacos, burritos, enchiladas, tamales and a few other items. They can build these around pork, chicken and familiar meats. But they also offer tongue and tripe.
Yes, they prepare a hearty, funky menudo.
When they expand, La Monarca could become the most popular taqueria around. It may have claimed that title already. Items that must be made ahead of time, such as tamales, rarely last through the rush.
“The people, they support us,” Ramos observed. “We try to keep up.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
