Here’s something most of us don’t ponder much, but which may turn a simple breakfast of honey and biscuits into a true eye opener: Wild buckwheat is not, in fact, buckwheat at all — not even close. People elevated the name of black bindweed because its flowers resemble those of the more illustrious plant.
But, observed David Fallstead, the wild buckwheat found in Lake County is nothing more than “a small, spindly little weed that no one recognizes.”
Fortunately, Fallstead’s bees seek it out in portions of Morgan, Jericho and Jerusalem valleys each year. The honey they produce under his Dollar Mountain Apiaries label is unique, compelling and thoroughly unforgettable.
A deep mahogany in color, it releases an intense bouquet. A warming scent of rye bread and sorghum promises a dense, brooding honey. But there are other, fluttering notes — floral, with touches of waving grass and warmed earth.
But that’s just the introduction. Dollar Mountain’s Wild Buckwheat is a singular honey. Hearty and sweet, molasses might come to might at first taste. Yet it’s a lighter touch, with hints of coffee and malted grain, surprisingly similar to a good English stout. With a dark bread finish tucked into the rich sugary tang, it’s one of the more complex local honeys.
“There’s more to life than just dark honey and light honey,” Fallstead explained. “We’re trying to do variety honeys that are available in Lake County.”
The powerful flavors may cow those more familiar with grocery store brands. But Fallstead prefers the diversity produced when bees are allowed to seek out native plants far from cultivated land. Operating out of Lower Lake, he keeps 100 hives around Lake County, moving them on occasion to seek out new blooms.
Dollar Mountain’s wild buckwheat honey resulted from a natural twist. Bees cannot simply be directed toward one plant or field. They may roam two miles in their search. When they located the humble bindweed, Fallstead was impressed with the result.
“Basically it was ‘wow, we got an unusual honey — where’s it from?’” he recalled. “So we do research.”
Fallstead is able to keep up the wild buckwheat line by situating hives near the plant in season. And fans of deep, brawny, potent and complex honeys should hope the wild buckwheat continues to thrive.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
