A question pops to mind when you just look at a bottle of Shed Horn Cellars’ Non Typical Red: Is winemaker Michael Wood out of control or extraordinarily indecisive?
The wine, after all, results from Wood blending not two or three grapes, but, um — Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Petite Verdot and Malbec — that’s seven. In one bottle. And if he harvested Grenache, Merlot or Mourvedre, who knows? He might just go for a record.
Yet when you sample the just released 2013 vintage of the Non Typical, you realize Wood not only maintains his wits, but also flexes them with extraordinary skill.
On the nose the unique blend presents ripe plum and black currant aromas, but with a richer and more wordly attitude. Everything the wine picked up from its travels through the different varietals attempts to sound off, like a symphony warming up. Dried fruit contends with black pepper, dark chocolate and charred tobacco as the bass section rumbles to life. On the other side of the aisle, cheerier notes take flight, including red cherries, vanilla and the vinous green flair found in great Cabernet.
There may be more, but the swirl around the glass draws you in. And the first sip confirms the wild orchestration you encountered on the nose. It starts with a flow of dark berry jam and split plum and finishes rolling in peppery spice and nettles.
A lot more occurs in between.
“People are different and they pick up on different parts,” Wood said. “It’s fruity and soft and easy to drink. There’s so much going on.”
Zinfandel and Syrah account for around 70 percent of the blend. These varietals ensure a pleasant fruity character, while drawing some vanilla and pepper from the time spent in oak (Wood uses 20 percent new staves, both French and American). Petite Sirah provides a neat tannic structure and swarthy depth.
The Cab weighs in with earthiness and dark chocolate, along with the familiar fruits. That hint of cherry must come from Barbera. And on it goes, each lending a touch of this or an indication of that.
Yet it all remains in balance. The grapes compliment each other nicely — even the rip roaring Petite Verdot — turning a litany of flavors and aromas into a generous, pleasing wine. Despite the intrigue, it’s plush and perfect for any occasion.
“It’s a blend I played around with,” Wood explained. “I came up with a blend I thought was different.”
He started the line in 2009. Each year he has to tweak the percentages a little to deal with the vagaries of a vintage and maintain a consistent profile. But the results are worthwhile. Shed Horn’s 2012 Non Typical, for example, earned a rash of golds and double golds.
“Every year is a different challenge, making it all come together,” he said. “The ‘13 is really nice.”
It’s one of Lake County’s “must try” wines, that is certain.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
