Those in the world of wine — producers, critics and snobs alike — debate the value of grapes from “old vines.” Plants rooted for more than 50 years struggle to reach the crop yields of their younger days. And for some varietals the flavor loses focus.
On the other hand, there can be no doubt about the beauty of R Vineyards’ 2013 Old Vine Zinfandel.
Aromas of red cherries, strawberries, dark fruit jam flow from the glass, underscored by raspy pepper, dried leaves and old honey. It lets you anticipate a bold, fruit forward wine. It drapes itself in finery. But the grand old Zin cannot close its deeper, more prowling urges in a vault.
The flavors leave a similar impressing. It is at first refined, with rich, ripe berries and fruits. Within this lurks a more rustic, well-worn leather sensation. There is a genteel structure and neatly restrained sugars, existing alongside dried peppercorns, black licorice and earthier notes.
R Vineyards and their curmudgeonly vines have produced something gorgeous.
“Zin seems to do well with old vines,” R winemaker Dave Rosenthal said. “The production goes down” — R Vineyards finished only 72 cases — but quality goes up.”
The vines were planted in 1937. By the time Rosenthal’s family purchased the land a few decades later — in 1972 — the vines seemed almost wild, as previous stewards had turned their backs and allowed them to languish.
Despite advice from successful winemakers to the contrary, Rosenthal worked to bring the vines new life. He still sips some of the wine produced in 1980 from the old vine grapes. The 2013 vintage is Rosenthal’s first public offering.
Of course, the wine required some care. Rosenthal watched the grapes drift deep into ripeness before picking and needed to cut the resulting sugars. And when he tasted from the barrel, he knew it needed more time.
“A lot of it was patience, leaving it in the barrel,” Rosenthal said. He racked four times, between new French and old — with some American staves mixed in with the latter. After more than a year, Rosenthal decided to leave the wine to rest for a few more months.
“That seems to have calmed it down,” Rosenthal observed. “We’re very happy with the wine.”
No wonder. The 2013 Old Vine Zinfandel from R Vineyards is a bottle to show off, one to impress friends with on an informal evening. It will complement burgers, but open eyes when served alongside something on white tablecloth.
