People often knock German cooking for its heft — glistening sausages, fried cutlets, even the travesty known as “currywurst” come to mind.
Prepared well, however, a dish like Wiener schnitzel is almost ethereal. The crispy veneer shatters, the pounded pork melts, the squirt of citrus darts across the palate. It’s a beautiful thing.
At Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery, an eclectic new restaurant in Lucerne, chef-owner John Arslanian not only serves a spot on schnitzel, he also adds a welcome twist, incorporating the acidic citrus zing into a bright caper aioli. It’s a touch that illustrates both his understanding of tradition and willingness to stamp it with his own flair.
The restaurant is by no means German. In fact, Arslanian’s menu roams the atlas. In the entrees list you find English bangers and mash, jerk chicken reminiscent of the Caribbean and Milanesa from Mexico. The starters draw influence from India, Greece and the good ol’ USA. Under the heading of “Spuds” you’ll find one plate of French fries smothered in Cajun flavors, another dressed in Korean garb.
“We worked at several different types of restaurants in the past,” explained Arslanian, including his partner, Scott Price, in the comment. “There’s something for everyone.”
The list includes time in big name global fusion kitchens — witness Fresh & Bangin’s BBQ egg rolls, a thoroughly southern (pulled pork, grits, slaw) take on the Asian street food. Price once worked with Bobby Flay. Arslanian jumped from Wolfgang Puck’s Los Angeles catering operation to the shores of Clear Lake at the behest of two friends employed locally.
“They convinced me this would be the next Napa in five or ten years,” he said.
Arslanian plans a seasonal menu paired to Lake County wines and California beers (once his license comes through). Already he is working with Lake County farms — Love Farms on Scotts Valley Rd. in particular — for fresh produce and visiting farmers markets.
“Everything I’ve eaten here, you can taste the difference,” he said of the area’s fruits and vegetables. “I can’t wait for pear season.”
The only ingredient he’s had difficulty finding on a reliable basis are green plantains, necessary for the restaurant’s jerk chicken.
This emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients is part of Arslanian’s culinary MO — his modus operandi — and his commitment to joining in Lake County’s anticipated success. Even the restaurant’s name reflects this ethic.
Yes, “Fresh” points to the fact that Arslanian, Price and the staff prepare everything but the bread from scratch, right down to the sunflower pesto.
The “Bangin’”? Well, that’s just an old habit.
“Since I was a kid, me and my friends said ‘bangin” for ‘awesome,’” he recalled. “’That’s a bangin’ burger.’”
In addition to the restaurant, Arslanian and Price operate a catering truck. They are ready to install a pizza oven and they have designs on expansion, sometime down the road.
“We are so much more than what we are now,” Arslanian pointed out.
But what they are now, after just a month and a half in operation, is very impressive. The chile relleno, for example, brings the swarthy nature of roasted poblano onto the dance floor with bittersweet roasted corn and sets them to a unique tempo, at once spirited thanks to tangy goat cheese mozzarella and brooding. Yes, it’s set in a rich, earthy black bean puree. Instead of building a regular Caesar salad, Arslanian grills the romaine to create a belligerent edge.
Already Fresh & Bangin’ is a destination space drawing a regular crowd. One family even brings in their own menus, crossing off each item on a mission to finish them all.
“There is so much support,” Arslanian said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
