The true heart of England cannot be found on its storied soccer grounds. It does not beat in memories of the Fab Five. Nor is it located in the halls of Buckingham Palace.
No, the heart and soul of the country exists in the crackle of a beer batter crust over a dense cod filet.
Fish and chips are not only a working class English staple, but also — arguably — the nation’s most successful export. Remember the Arthur Treacher’s restaurant chain? And of course Long John Silver’s serves a plebeian version. Even upscale restaurants feature the dish, from the Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston to Malibu Seafood on the Pacific Coast.
In Lake County, you can find fish and chips all around the lake. And, yes, the components matter — fries, sauce, an acidic counter — but preparing a flaky filet under a delicate shell is what separates a kitchen from the commonplace. Here are some of the best spots.
Park Place
50 3rd St., Lakeport 707-263-0444
The popular Lakeport destination offers two versions, one with a panko crust and the more typical beer batter.
“There are people who want something lighter,” chef Francisco Cervantes said of the former. “It’s a different flavor.”
Yet Park Place’s beer battered fish could hardly be considered a weighty dish. Cervantes keeps the flavor profile clean, with just a little salt and pepper to highlight the malty crust. He prefers Sierra Nevada for its rich, floral nature, but cuts this with a splash of very mild Coors.
“We use Coors to offset the hoppiness,” Cervantes explained.
The mellow crust eases into the lean fish, lending the dish a comforting tone. While deep fried, the oil leaves only a trace of welcome richness in its wake. This is a preparation notable for its simplicity.
“It’s a tried and true recipe,” the chef said.
The Saw Shop & Gallery
3825 Main St., Kelseyville 707-278-0129
Chef Jeremy Zabel agrees with the simple approach, whipping up a batter with India Pale Ale from the tap and a little salt.
Mind you, he arrived back at the most basic starting point after attempting hundreds of different batters. Zabel even spent time comparing the effect of bottled beer and draft beer on the resulting crust before casting innovation aside.
“I couldn’t pinpoint why it works,” Zabel observed, “but simple is best.”
Indeed, the dish is a marvel of restraint. The brittle shell adds texture to slabs of Alaskan cod, certainly. It also props up the calm nature of the fish with a hint of grassy earth from the ale. At the same time, Zabel emphasizes the filet, hand cutting it just a little thicker than expected so it stands out.
But to pull off this simplicity, one must focus on technique. The beer must not be allowed to warm before it goes into the batter. Zabel adds salt to the brew, as well, causing it to froth. The reason for beer batter’s popularity, after all, is the airy crust that results.
And for Zabel, the secret to fish and chips lies in a good piece of cod and a deft touch with the rest.
“A lot of people overwork their batter,” Zabel pointed out. “We barely stir ours.”
Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery
6244 E. Hwy. 20, Lucerne 707-600-1275
The version of fish and chips served by chef John Arslanian proves that room exists to maneuver, even with a tradition-bound dish.
Yes, he starts with an India Pale Ale. But takes a moment to toast cumin and blend it into the batter, along with a little whole grain mustard. The additions build upon the earthy bitterness from the beer, creating a hearty, warming crust.
In another, even bigger departure from the norm, Arslanian prefers the mildly sweet savor of swai to the more familiar cod. While swai borders on endangered in the wild, farm-raised fish are plentiful and inexpensive. In fact, Arslanian became familiar with swai at seaside stands and came to appreciate its flavor and firmness.
Oh, and there’s that departure thing.
“We wanted to be different,” he said.
Of course, the Fresh & Bangin’ chef knows that more than a hundred years of culinary tradition can be bent, but should not be broken. He falls back on the fundamentals that made fish and chips so popular.
“From oil temperature to beer batter then the type of fish — there’s a lot to get right,” he pointed out.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
