Most grape varietals react to that combination of climate and soil known as terroir. And most pick up traits from wood. But Tempranillo is a grape without much conviction. New oak leads it one way, neutral another. It cowers under constant heat, thrives when the thermometer bounces up and down. The varietal even offers noticeably different responses when introduced to French staves instead of American.
But this is hardly a character flaw. Under the right conditions, in the hands of the right winemaker, Tempranillo can be a most eloquent wine.
Brassfield’s 2013 Tempranillo tells you immediately of Jason Moulton’s regard for the varietal. Aromas of weathered plums and dried cherry fill the air. As they rise, a rich and meaty note rolls in, almost like smoked bacon. Under this, a bitter, burnished impression flits by, softened by alluring hints of citrus and leathery rose petals.
Moulton, Brassfield’s winemaker, likens the bittersweet note to molasses or brown sugar. “These are barrel derived,” he said.
Like the producers from Spain’s Rioja region, Moulton prefers American oak, most of it neutral and all of select quality. By using 30 percent new wood, however, he brings in just enough of an earthy coconut character to round out the finish.
It’s a fleeting thing that would be more noticeable if absent. For a wealth of fruit rolls across your palate — cherries, raspberries, dark plums — rich and fresh and untouched by sugar. This is bolstered by rubbed leather and dusty white pepper.
The plush, spicy aspect adds in impression of old world luxury to the flavor profile. The fruit gains a more confident stride — less in your face flash, more reserved elan.
While Moulton harvested at 24 brix, he pressed on the sweet side.
“My challenge is taming the tannins,” he said. “Otherwise it’s a monster to tame.”
He racked the wine only two times, leaving it to develop on its lees. Still, he credits the use of fine wood for much of the 2013’s impressive character.
Unfortunately, few people will be able to compare it to Brassfield’s 2014. During last year’s growing season, animals consumed close to half of the crop.
“There’s a family of bears that love Tempranillo,” Moulton said. “They just go right through the fence.”
The three bears — a mother and cubs, now accustomed to the joys of the varietal (they leave other grapes alone) — wiped out the 2014. Fortunately, Brassfield produced 250 cases of the beautiful 2013 … and may follow up with a 2015 if the animals find forage elsewhere.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
