Bison is a notoriously difficult meat to prepare.
Yes, proponents boast of its lean character compared to slabs of well-marbled beef, but that is the problem. Take your eye off a patty of bison meat as it sizzles on the grill and you’re likely to end up with something closer to a tanned hide.
But order a bison burger at the Old World Tavern in downtown Lakeport, however, and you will quickly discover why so many people crave America’s “original” red meat.
The burger carries itself with a masculine swagger — rustic and unrefined, without being coarse. It needs little to make it stand out, drawing only a faint smoky patina from the combination of olive oil and the grill.
Old World’s kitchen staff wisely back off on the seasoning. They add just a sprinkle of salt and pepper, not even enough to make a real impression. And they keep the stack simple as well, with a little — take that literally — lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion to counter the husky meat.
“I feel it would be sabotage to pump up the burger with a lot of ingredients,” said chef Elliott Grove. “It doesn’t need it. We let the flavor speak for itself.”
Even more remarkable than the kitchen’s welcome reserve is the juicy burger that results. The meat edges up to medium rare, with a cushy center — an achievement won by the most basic of steps.
Grove and his colleagues merely grease up the grill as thoroughly as possible and keep a careful eye on the progress.
It’s a simple yet fulfilling burger.
Old World added the bison burger about three months ago as a special, using local meat from the J-S Ranch near Ukiah. It has since become a favorite.
“I remember days when Al [owner Al Menchaca] would go to the farm to pick up the meat and next day have to go back,” Grove said. “It’s exciting to see a special go really well.”
For some people the word “bison” stirs images of the old west: herds roaming the plains, frontiersmen like “Buffalo Bill,” or John Wayne blasting away at … well, history and Hollywood — it’s a blurry line. Others proclaim its health benefits. Again, bison is low in fat and high in protein.
The rest of us will be happy just to sit back and enjoy the flavor.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
