Syrah shows many faces. Depending upon the whims of a winemaker, it can be an easy drinking, a bursting, fruit packed bomb or a plush, sophisticated wine of great pedigree.
The 2009 Cote de Castelero from Alienor Cellars allows the varietal to express the convivial informality associated with Australian Shiraz, as well as the densely laced complexity of Syrahs from Hermitage in France.
Blackberries, ripe on the vine, swell from the wine as it decants. But this fruit forward notion is quickly nipped as the bouquet develops. A handful of peppercorns waiting for the grinder lends a gentle, prickly aromatic edge. Dried herbs haul the fruit back toward earth and a strand of suede leather adds a time-worn note, as if the bottle belonged in an old world den.
There is a richness to the nose that is promising. And Alienor’s Cote de Castelero follows through.
Again ripe fruits take the lead, as dark berries and cherries swell across the palate. But these are contradicted by dense, earthbound characters: pomace, well-used leather and dark leaves. In between, there are comfortable hints, like bread warming in the oven. It tips this way and that, settling into a clever balance between and sooty — without ever loosing touch with the rich fruit.
On the finish, a spicy flick catches your attention. This is countered by an unexpected hint of strawberry, as if to leave a friendly smile before the next sip.
The 2009 Cote de Castelero is easy to enjoy. It is also a cultivated wine — the equivalent, in a bottle, of The Most Interesting Man in the World.
Alienor is a unique label, the result of a working friendship between the highly regarded Bella Vista Farming Company of David Weiss and winemakers May-Britt and Denis Malbec, a former cellar master for Latour.
In fact, Denis Malbec was born into the vineyards. His father served as Latour’s cellar master for many years, as well. And that familiarity is evident in the gorgeous 2009 Cote de Castelero.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
