Every winery in Lake County bottles a Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes thrive in this climate and soil, consistently producing medal-winning wines.
The profile of Sauvignon Blanc is instantly recognizable, ranging from herbaceous, grassy, bell pepper notes to bright tropical fruits with a crisp finish. Some of the best local examples present a neat, peachy flavor.
But the folks at the new Boatique Winery near Kelseyville wanted to do something a little different.
Their 2013 Sauvignon Blanc releases more weathered aromas, as if from an old orchard. Yes, there are strong hints of stone fruit, but these are surrounded by apple — a muted basket that also hints of vanilla, with a trace of minerals.
Zesty citrus and quenching white fruits roll across the palate, certainly. Instead of finding dimension from that familiar grassy frame, however, Boatique’s Sauvignon Blanc almost drapes like a full bodied wine. And there’s a rich, buttery background providing heft.
If you stretch your imagination, this could sub in for a Chardonnay.
“I wanted to downplay the green, grassy flavor,” said Boatique winemaker Luke Bass. “It’s not a typical Sauvignon Blanc, by any means.”
Bass let the grapes linger on the vines a little longer than normal, hoping to push past the familiar flavors. He let the wine rest on lees for six months. But the most important decision was to abandon stainless steel fermentation for French oak — 30 percent of it new.
French oak tends to be less assertive than American, especially when new. The staves also contribute subtle vanilla and wood notes, along with a rich feel.
“That oxidation and the lees — in the end, it’s a Sauvignon Blanc with Chardonnay character,” Bass observed. “That was a fun way to make the wine.”
It is different — more luxurious, less flirtatious — yet it remains true to the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The notion of Chardonnay strikes you at first, but as you ease into it, the wine becomes both crisp and comfortable.
Boatique’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc is, however, worth a try not because of its unique treatment. Nope — it is simply a charming, wonderful wine.
“I wasn’t quite sure what people would make of it, but its been well received,” Bass said. “It worked out.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
