Cherry jam may seem like a simple proposition. A lot of fruit, some sugar, pectin and you have a spreadable treat.
But that’s not how Heather Kramer and Amy Mathews of Two Chicks Tasty Treats view the matter. Jams, fruit butters, baked goods — these only achieve their highest form with the help of an artist’s touch.
Two Chicks produces a cherry jam that is versatile. It explodes from crusty bread with bolts of deep, dark fruit and lively sugars. When paired against salty farmer’s cheese, a richer, earthier character takes over. The impression turns almost savory, as the combination brings out a caramelized hint from the sugars. As a reduction served with seared meats, it becomes beautifully dense and bittersweet.
It may not last long enough to fulfill all the possibilities, however, for Two Chicks cherry jam is addictive. Almost black in color and gleaming in the light, it carries compact, intense fruit. Natural tartness is boosted by a little lemon to tame the sugars. This soaring note is then tempered by a hint of bitterness.
All of this rides on a rich, mellow swell.
To create their cherry jam, Kramer and Mathews start with cherries picked at the peak of ripeness from Lake County trees. They mix in a little underripe fruit to bring out the sour aspect. Then they add a splash of Amaretto.
Yes, an almond liqueur.
“Cherry and almond is a classic combination,” Kramer pointed out. “It adds a velvety richness that is wonderful.”
Indeed, it is difficult to pull away from the jar and shake the flavor from your mind.
It doesn’t require more than a couple spoonfuls of Amaretto to soothe a batch of jam. That’s the artist’s touch. Another surprising ingredient — butter — contributes a bit of magic.
“The butter is actually an old trick, used for centuries,” Kramer explained.
Maybe a half of a teaspoon ends up in each batch, but it’s enough to reduce foaming as the jam heats. This results in less waste and focused flavors.
Two Chicks prepares a variety of jams, fruit butters, cookies, cakes and other items from local produce, all of it seasonal and much of it organic.
“Most of our fruit comes from other vendors at the farmers markets,” Kramer said.
They will leave out the butter at the request — ahead of time — of vegan customers.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
