After opening four restaurants, including Ukiah’s popular Romi’s Brew & BBQ, the turmoil of starting up a new place is long behind Rogelio Hernandez.
“You would think,” he said. “You would think.”
Yet as he and his team readies the new Romi’s location in Nice, the young restaurateur appears relaxed — even though he has yet to test the wood fired grill and smoker built just for the space.
That’s right, an outdoor smoker and grill, where line cooks will prepare ribs, steaks, chicken and burgers over glowing oak logs.
“A lot of meat,” Hernandez said, describing the menu. “Our theme is wild west.”
Romi’s gained popularity for its California take on Southwestern barbecue, featuring slowly smoked ribs and other meats. The group purchased the Marina Grill location in Nice two years ago, recently deciding to renovate and upgrade.
So they gutted the room and rebuilt the inside, from the new concrete floor to the handmade tables up to the beer cooler in the back.
Yes, beer. They have 16 taps featuring Northern California names such as Lost Coast, Sierra Nevada, Racer 5, Lagunitas and their own organic blonde ale, brewed in Shasta.
“I do like my beer,” Hernandez said.
But the most notable change is in the kitchen. Oh, a stainless steel space exists inside, but it serves primarily as counters for plating. Much of the cooking takes place outside.
The smoker can handle 160 racks at one time, with adjustments to allow for barbecued chicken and other meats. The custom grill sits under the hot spot, where line cooks will stoke the wood fire. As it gains a patina, the gleaming giant will take on the look people associate with smoke: dripping, blackened and welcoming.
Hernandez is confident of the concept. “We’re good at barbecue, so it should work here,” he noted.
After years in food service, he understands the things a kitchen staff can control. Of course there is the matter of quality product. They depend on Northern California bakers for their bread, for example. The coffee beans arrive green before being handed over to another independent shop for roasting. The rest is a matter of temperature and time.
In other words, things they already know.
“We want consistency,” Hernandez pointed out.
Yes, he also knows that a new restaurant will always endure growing pains, especially during the first few weeks. That’s why he hedges over the value of past experience. Opening a place, even under a tried and true banner, remains daunting — a step off the edge.
But they are on the verge of completing that step. Romi’s Brew & BBQ awaits the results of their final inspection and a few finishing touches in the dining room. They hope to open this weekend. If that becomes a rush, almost certainly they will welcome their first guests next week.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016.
