Sometimes the best expression of a varietal is in a quiet nod.
Yes, there is a large market for the muscle bound Cabernets or the slinky, powerful Chardonnays. But those often showcase more of the barrel than the fruit.
For Chacewater’s 2013 “Teal” — part of their new black label line — Chardonnay, winemaker Mark Burch opted for a restrained approach.
“Reduce the buttery character, that’s what I’m looking to do,” he explained.
Instead of the rich, languid Chardonnays one associates with California, he produced a wine that is gentle yet very complex.
Almost shy at first, it hesitates to reveal itself, even on the nose. The aromas initially resemble young, drying hay and soft white fruit — a still and cloudless summer afternoon, resting undisturbed. But as the wine becomes a little more accustomed to aeration and the presence of others, it allows more intriguing notes to show, including hints of vanilla and lavender, along with coy spice.
It’s at this point you realize the Black Label coquette is not as modest as first appears.
Still, it holds back a little on the palate, at least for a moment. Peach, pineapple and banana flavors, stripped of their sugars, tread lightly then begin to gain confidence. As they do, fresh tropical fruits develop. Notes of vanilla and soft flowers lend an opulent air, yet there is an acidic crispness.
This bright aspect creates an interesting mirage. You sense the body of a lush, buttery Chardonnay, but not the weight. The wine feels light, even as you gain the impression of some heft. The finish is equally intriguing, reverting to the demure, restrained character even while willing to linger and offer up some spicy whispers.
“It’s very layered,” Burch observed. “I love that about it.”
The Chacewater winemaker used organically grown grapes from Lake County’s Bartolucci Vineyards and rested the wine in 100 percent French oak — 40 percent new wood, the rest a mix of one and two year old staves.
Burch’s goal was to blunt the buttery aspect and soften the vanilla. He also patiently worked in a medium toast, looking for a European-style wine.
Before releasing the wine, he let it sit in the bottle, settling any remaining jitters.
“We’re not rushing them,” Burch said of the Black Label wines. “We like to do things that are unique.”
Because the subtle layers draw you in, it’s a wine you want to finish. Unlike the more powerful wines that may clobber your palate after a couple of glasses, the 2013 Chardonnay remains lean, fresh and surprising with each round.
It’s an expression of the grape and the fine art of coopering. It’s quiet, yet full of character when it does reveal itself.
Burch also believes it will continue to improve in the bottle for a few more years.
“I’m excited to watch that wine unfold,” he said.
Well, if you can force yourself to put it away.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
