On the days he brews beer, Jessie Cahill typically involves himself in the complexities of the hop schedule, specific gravity and the proper moment to pitch the yeast. But he put aside all of that when producing his first ginger beer.
Ginger Bender is a crisp, effervescent and spicy brew that manages to hide a whopping 6 percent alcohol glower behind a fun and refreshing countenance. But it starts with only a pile of ginger, some sugar, water and a bit of lemon.
“It was fun,” Cahill said of the process. “Ginger beer is pretty easy.”
Yes, it has been a favorite of home brewers, particularly in England, for many decades. The only concern involves the introduction of sugar — and some tedious labor.
Cahill tries to prepare things the right way. Instead of buying processed ginger, ready to toss into a bin, he peeled and chopped up five pounds of the root, working it eventually into a paste. A ginger soda the restaurant and brewpub carries, as well as an alcoholic version he tried recently, inspired the effort.
“I tasted it and thought ‘that’s not how I’d do mine,’” he recalled. “’I want mine to be more gingery.’”
But adding sugar, he discovered the pleasant beer can be an active beast during fermentation. It fizzed and bubbled and threatened to burst. So Cahill decided to stop the fermentation process and back sweeten to tame the spice.
The result is simply enjoyable. Ginger and cream soda engage you on the nose, followed by a richer, candied ginger sensation. Yet the beer is not overtly sweet. Instead, a clean, fizzy snap of ginger drapes your palate at first, a dressing for the denser flavor to follow. While that touch of lemon adds a brisk character, the root always bares its sharpness.
“It definitely has a bite,” Cahill agreed.
Despite a long and spicy finish, the overall impression is one light, effervescent and clean. It’s something you want to drink — cooling on a summer day, loaded with warming ginger on a cool evening.
Cahill completed the batch just before the Valley Fire. Mutt & Jess reopened last week with a stock of guest microbrews and the Ginger Bender. For the next few weeks — until his new equipment comes into play it is the only one of his brews available at the standout Cobb establishment. It’s unlikely anyone will mind.
“I just wish there was more,” he said.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
