Dustin Fults picked the perfect name for his new red blend. It emphasized the chaotic pleasure of fruits, berries, spices and other sensations swirling from the seven varietals he used.
A few days later he considered ditching the name.
Fults Family Vineyard’s 2013 Wildfire bursts on the palate. Tempranillo, Mouvedre, Grenache, Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah all contribute to the vibrant flavors, though Syrah and Zinfandel dominate.
So Fults wanted a word that would suit the new wine. Wildfire — suggested by the wife of a firefighter friend — fit its temperament. Just three days after deciding on the name, however, the Rocky Fire erupted.
Suddenly the name seemed inappropriate.
“We hesitated at first,” Fults explained. “But we decided ‘let’s go through with it.’”
Blueberry and blackberry aromas introduce the wine, indicating a pleasant experience to follow. But the nose also reveals a nip of quince, a hint of zest, a dour earthiness and more — features of a recusant soul.
A sip brings a rush of dark berries and juicy plum, bright yet also jammy. Behind this prowls earthier flavors, leaving traces of battered leather, deeply cured tobacco, wafting smoke and hewn clove. Ponder for a moment longer and its possible to pick up a streak of fatty meat here, the rich note of vanilla there.
Clearly Syrah, Zinfandel and Tempranillo dominate through mid-palate. And the berry and plum compote never really abates — there’s just a lot going on.
As if to counter the brooding earthy side, a nice citrus pitch rises, along with lighter cherry. At the same time, however, a touch of pepper and a rocky mineralic note take shape. There are moments when Grenache, Mouvedre and the other varietals show themselves. Yet for all the wildness, it remains a pleasant, approachable wine — endearing, perhaps because of all its feral roaming.
“It’s well balanced,” Fults agreed. “It’s one of those things where you just keep blending until you find something you like. We’re really happy with it.”
Fults matured the blend in American oak — half new, half neutral — for two full years before bottling. This honed the deeper flavors and pulled that nice vanilla warmth into the Syrah. The wine finishes with hints of pepper and dry spice, adding contrast to the tart fruit.
The name, indeed fits.
The crew at Fults Family Vineyards decided in the end to make the most of an appealing wine readied in an unfortunate season. They will donate $5 from every bottle of 2013 Wildfire sold to the local fire districts.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
