Wavering heat rising from bread, the inviting aromas of spice and slivered nuts — on a winter day stepping in from the damp chill, cinnamon rolls herald the flickering hearth and toasty comforts of home.
There is just something steady, something rooted in the twirl of sugar and cinnamon. Although bakers and confectioners have long reached beyond the time worn recipes of yore to feature colorful cupcakes or intricately woven pastries, our eyes still wander back when a tray of cinnamon rolls appears on that shelf behind the glass.
Such mystic chords of memory become evident when you try the cinnamon rolls at Mutt & Jess in Cobb. Ribbons of dough wrap a dusting of spice, mellowed by pieces of almond and pecan, punctuated with dried fruit. The seasoning shows an au fait restraint, with just enough cinnamon peeking through the dough, icing and sugar to create anticipation, but not enough to tempt you from the roll’s many other charms.
“I try for a more French take — more butter, less cinnamon,” explained baker Merrilee Cahill.
She causes the dusty spice to step back and compose itself. She chastens the sugar when it tries to bat its eyes for attention. The result is a rich and nuanced dessert bun, one in which the bread actually stands out.
That’s right, it’s all about the dough. One might easily mistake the roll for a nutty whole wheat chef-d’oeuvre. Yet it is just simple yeasted dough, dressed with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice and just a touch of sugar — an engaging touch.
Cahill allows the dough to rise twice, the second time after the whole has been rolled and sliced.
“It’s actually one of the easier things we make,” she said.
Yet the deftly seasoned roll lends an unusual heft to the spice. The bread eases into the additional sugar and cinnamon, creating a flavor that is rich, though not overt.
It’s a beautiful result.
As a final touch, Cahill drapes the roll in cream cheese icing. It’s a welcoming touch, but one might argue this is just as much in her favor as the patrons of Mutt & Jess.
“I’m a big lover of cream cheese icing,” she admitted. “I always set some aside so I can eat it by the spoonful.”
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
