When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, the folks at Moore Family Winery generally follow the stainless steel convention. And why not? The practice produces friendly wines with a refreshing, citrus snap.
Of course, there is that qualification: generally.
“Sometimes we play a little,” said winemaker Beau Moore.
For the winery’s 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Moore gave it a turn in oak. Not much — perhaps 20 percent — but enough to lace in a little more complexity.
The wood adds a creamy note on the nose, an opulent wrap over the lithe peach aromas. A little caramelized zest lurks over the glass, as well.
But the nimble touch of oak was never intended to mask the bright cheer of the varietal. Fresh, tangy fruits fill the olfactory senses — peach and green apple, with a hint like nectarine. Behind this is a breezy, grassy lilt.
On the palate brisk flavors again waltz to the fore, the white stone fruit swaying in step with newly sliced apple. An herbaceous floral character tarries on the edges, along with traces of citrus.
It’s a bright, convivial wine.
“We were happy with it,” Moore said. “The acidity is nice and crisp.”
Sure, it’s Lake County. Sauvignon Blanc — remarkable ones — are almost commonplace. But that just increases the degree of difficulty. Because of the sweltering late summer streak, the fruit ripened early. Perhaps this and the taste of oak Moore provided allowed a spicy note to develop. The wood served this wine like a frame, completing the arrangement.
Sauvignon Blanc often lugs a vegetal basket along, comparable to the snap of green bell pepper. This savor is prized by some, frowned upon by others. What Moore created from this is something unique — peppery, yet genteel. It creeps into the finish, looping and twining into a filigree.
It’s an elegant end to an altogether pleasing experience.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
