Only on rare occasion does one pick up a wine bottle, glance at the label and ask “why?”
Considered the also ran — the third — of Burgundy’s varietals, the unconcerned Aligote grape is generally swept into quivering corners of otherwise lofty vineyards. Sure, the less judicious wine drinkers in parts of Eastern Europe applaud its qualities, but the French consider Aligote the antithesis of Chardonnay.
Where other less familiar varietals eventually find favor in new world markets, over 95 percent of all Aligote is still grown in France. It is often left to pair — beautifully — with cassis liqueur for the famed aperitif Kir.
However, winemaker Jed Steele devotes more than 1,000 cases of his Shooting Star label to the forgotten varietal. Drawing grapes from Washington — Aligote adapted to cooler climates — planted by foresighted vintners around 1980, Steele proudly dares people to give the grape a chance.
“That’s part of the fun,” explained Steele Wines general manager David Ostberg.
Steele is clearly on to something here. Shooting Star’s 2013 Aligote is a generous wine.
The offerings begin on the nose. Delicate citrus arrives lounging on a cushion of billowy cream. More exotic tropical notes crease the surface while ruffles of new grass and blooming flowers sprouting from rocky soil follow.
A sip brings a basket of crisp fruits — lemons, Granny Smith apples and a flicker from the tropical isles. As this fades, a lush floral arrangement emerges, lending a soft, mineralic edge to the finish.
There is a brisk nature to this wine, yet the Aligote’s acidic nature has been tamed by several months in well worn oak. This contributes the wine’s most impressive note. Throughout, a rich and creamy essence swaddles the fruit and floral flavors.
“It builds more character,” Ostberg said of its time resting in French wood. “It’s like a lemon curd.”
An apt description, indeed. Steele has managed to bring a plush feel to a typically acidic varietal. His treatment unveils Aligote’s delicate, complex springtime palette.
Ostberg points out that the oak influence should soften over time, allowing even more intricate flavors to feather into the profile. Aligotes are indeed often held longer than other whites.
But it is such a giving wine now, it’s hard to put the bottle back on its shelf.
And that answers the question definitively.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
