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A six pack of Lake County sparkling wines. - Dave Faries — Lake County Publishing
A six pack of Lake County sparkling wines. – Dave Faries — Lake County Publishing
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It should come as no surprise that Lake County wineries turn out some remarkable celebratory wines. Yes, that means sparklers — and not a few of them break from the staid tradition established in the Champagne region.

They are available at tasting rooms. But this being the last minute (and there is always a scramble for sparkling wines on New Year’s Eve), they are also gathered at the Lake County Wine Studio in Upper Lake.

Of course, the wine studio closes at 5 p.m. today, adding to the frenzy.

The decision may be a difficult one. Consider, for instance, that from Lake County wineries one can snag a bubbling pear wine, a few fermented — twice — from red grapes and even a couple prepared in the classic style.

Here are some options:

Lady of the Lake

Lake County Sparkling Pear Wine

Prepared from Bartlett (80 percent) and Bosc (20 percent) pears, but in all other respects treated as a classic sparkling wine. Winemaker Miguel Silva uses the methode champenoise, which lends a crisp, dry character and light whiff of fresh pears.

Thorn Hill

Brut Cuvee de Prestige

Perhaps the closes to a traditional blanc, it offers subtle notes of citrus, freshly cut apples and lightly toasted bread that is vaguely sweet, almost like a gingerbread or graham cracker. Winemaker Amy Thorn brings all of this to crisp finish.

Olof Cellars

2009 Nebbiolo Fira Sparkling Wine

Eric Olof is making the most of his standout 2009 Nebbiolo crop, from experimenting with a white version to this unique sparkler. The wine is surprisingly dry, almost qualifying as a brut, with floral hints over an earthy quality.

Dusineberre

Cuvee Rouge

This is a beautiful wine, from the color to the gentle strawberry, summer meadow and warm toast character, with a clever tangy twist. Winemaker Jeff Smith draws his grapes from Napa, blending Gamay, Colombard and Zinfandel.

Bodkin

Blanc de Sauvignon Blanc Cuvee Agincourt

As a winemaker, Chris Christensen combines whimsy with a deadly serious dedication to the grape. He relies strictly on Lake County grapes and prefers to allow the Sauvignon Blanc to speak its mind. This is a wonderful, crisply popping, fruit-driven sparkler.

Shooting Star

Black Bubbles Lake County Syrah

Yes, a carbonated Syrah. Leave it to famed winemaker Jed Steele, who finds room to play with his Shooting Star label. The Black Bubbles is an active, fizzy wine with a lot of clever candied red fruit flavor, yet with a snappy, dry finish with a counterpoint of minerals and grass.

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