Chardonnay is a compliant varietal. It willingly bows to terroir and technique, developing a rich, buttery character in oak, turning bright and crisp in stainless steel, shedding its acidity in warmer climates.
Winemaker Gregory Graham takes full advantage of this, producing a popular oaked wine as well as a refreshing version. But his 2014 Gregory Graham Wedge Block Chardonnay — a Best of Class winner at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition — is a little different.
The wine splits its time between American oak and stainless steel, and the Chardonnay listens to both. From nine months in wood it learns to appreciate more leisurely appointments, showing aromas of laden fruit drooping on the vine, subtle hints of butterscotch on the palate and a comely creaminess. The metal instilled in it brisk, clean fruits and a cleansing bite of ripe apple on the finish.
“I make Chardonnay to be more viscous,” Graham pointed out. “A lot of people drink Chardonnay as an aperitif”.
But, he added, “this one is more of a local wine.”
The vines were planted by David Weiss in heavy soils along Soda Bay Road. At lower elevation the grapes endure more heat, encouraging more exotic expressions.
Tropical fruits enliven the nose, awakening images of palm fronds and azure waters. Each sip is like slicing into pineapple, yet the dulled edge — moderation of the varietal’s acidity — drape the supporting flavors in a rich cloth . Hints of peach just beginning to caramelize and soft banana underscore the tropical crispness.
It’s a wonderfully balanced and appealing wine, both subtle and brisk.
“I’m a fruit guy,” Graham acknowledged. “I like the wines bright.”
The 2013 edition of the Wedge Block Chardonnay earned Double Gold at the famed Chronicle contest. Although the 2014 trumped the entire field, Graham will not release it until spring. He still has a little of the previous vintage on hand. Besides, he believes the 2014 has the inclination to grow.
“It’s coming along,” he said. “It needs to have three to six months in the bottle.”
So the Best of Class wine gained from weather, wood and steel. And for now it will only get better.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
