Pour the 2014 R Vineyards Viognier into a glass and you are instantly transported.
A breeze ripples over a blooming spring garden. Honeysuckle responds, releasing its aromas, followed by the musty tug of geranium. From a distant field, freshly cut hay makes its impression.
Yes, Viognier is remarkable for its floral perfume. But this vintage from Middletown winemaker David Rosenthal is particularly fragrant. The bouquet is poetic — artistic, even. Pause too long over the glass absorbing the filling air and a glaze might transform the room into something from Monet.
Other notes emerge, if you can pull yourself from the Victorian flower beds. A snap of tart, exotic fruit rides like an aria over a roll of creamy white chocolate.
It’s possible to dally over the glass for several minutes, caught up in the beauty of its aromatic expression. But there is wine to drink.
Viognier compares to Chardonnay in mouthfeel, yet there is something fresher, more intense, in the varietal. While the flavors can be crisp, a richer weathered character frames the fruits — as if kiwi, ripe pear and a touch of green apple had been baked in a pudding pie.
Dabs of crème fraiche mute some of the floral notes on the palate, but only for a time. The finish is like a shower of petals.
Rosenthal coaxes all of this from a notoriously reticent grape. Viognier on the vine cowers from the world. It is sensitive to harvest, uncaring of a winemaker’s desire for decent yields. Worst of all, it prefers the company of mildew to water and sunlight.
But R Vineyards repeatedly offers standout Viogniers, vintage after vintage. Their 2014 is simply beautiful — the places it will take your imagination are even more so.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
