Try to usher Boatique’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon into a room with like minded wines. It may mingle, but only for a time.
Cabernets from California often carry themselves with a brawny swagger, flexing their fruit flavors yet earthy to the core. Winemakers in Bordeaux generally prefer a more composed wine.
Boatique’s Cabernet finds itself drawn to both styles, unwilling to settle into one space. On the nose it presents dark plum and luscious cherry tempered by licorice. These are traits one expects from the varietal, particularly in the new world, where cracked black peppercorns often whittle through the fruits. Only in this case, you sense finely ground white pepper, a more gentle impression.
This signals a transition, for what follows is a compelling stroll into a broad, open landscape in France. Hints of thistle, worn stone and swaying petals. It’s as if the wine traversed the Cabernet world in one breath.
The aromas are worth pondering. Even on the nose the wine promises adventure wrapped in elegant appointments.
A sip brings you back to California for a moment. Broad shouldered fruit strides across the palate. The flavors develop into something almost exotic — like stewed plum with a pinch of earthy spice served in a bento box.
In part because of this initial impression, Boatique winemaker Luke Bass enjoys tasting it alongside other vintages.
“It definitely has a different character,” he said. “The ‘12 has a kind of hoisin, fermented plum. The ‘14 has cinnamon and breadfruit.”
Yet the rich opening yields to a more delicate finish. The fruit brightens, showing the lively acidity associated with old world Cabernets. Meanwhile the cleansing sharpness on the edges contends with golden leaf tobacco and aromatic wood.
The finish lingers, leaving memories of lush red plums.
It’s a wonderful experience.
For the 2012, Boatique’s crew opted for all French oak, resting the wine for two years. Yet there is little trace of the genteel vanilla normally worn into Cabernet.
“We finished by adding some new oak to it,” Bass explained. “We wanted a fresher influence.”
Cabernets from California once championed the expansiveness of the varietal’s fruit, bolstered heartier notes. Yet more winemakers are searching through Cabernet’s diverse character, allowing some of the old world-style herbaceous or vegetal flavors to show, balancing the bold fruit on a brighter edge.
Boatique’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon may just be a unique vintage, however. Bass pointed out that at the time of bottling the wine “was already tasting full grown, mature.”
Hence it’s expatriate ways. It finds itself in a room with old school California flavors, but quickly ventures to its Bordeaux roots before finding its way to the modern day.
Perhaps that wanderlust led to the wine earning Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. One medal just won’t do for a wine this fascinating.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
