It seems impossible at first.
The 2014 Moscato del Fresco from Gregory Graham will readily assume the role of a dessert wine, yet approaches with an intricate bouquet more floral than sweet. The wine drapes the palate in finely spun sugar, yet finishes with a light, crisp and even refreshing snap.
A miracle?
Not really, according to Graham — unless you consider timing a chancy thing.
“It was ripe, so I had the option to do an off-dry Muscat,” the winemaker said, explaining that he wished to avoid a syrupy dessert wine. He harvested at a modest 24.5 brix.
“The idea was something that would go with a savory dish,” Graham pointed out.
Indeed, the fresh Muscat could easily replace a Sauternes, pairing with a cheese course, certain tapas plates, light pates, even the earthy, ethereal delight of a pan seared foie gras.
The first impression is of charming, friendly citrus under a canopy of orange blossoms. Here and there a whiff of honeysuckle introduces itself, while freshly sliced melon vies for attention.
All of this is tugged back by just the right grip of must and sun baked grass.
Bright, fresh apple gushes with each sip, sated by gentler notions of peach and orange zest. Around the edges, hints of citrus flirt lightly with your palate. The fruits are at once bold, draping your senses, yet delicately laced. And all the while, a measured sweetness — lively zest and cool apple peel stewing in their own sugars — coats your mouth. The wine is simply impeccable.
It’s a joyous experience.
Yet Graham shrugs at the achievement, referring to residual sugars and pH levels.
“The whole thing about sweet and tart flavors is you get this synergy,” he said. “One balances the other.”
Graham employed a light hand, fermenting slowly and a cool temperatures in stainless steel, relying on time to accentuate the fruit character.
“You just let it tick down to where you want it,” he explained.
And once you open a bottle and breathe in the blossoming flowers and cheerful fruits, you will want the 2014 Gregory Graham Moscato del Fresco. And likely another one.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
