It’s a miracle — or as close to divine intervention as natural forces and a little human nurturing allow.
That’s how Shannon Ridge winemaker Joy Merrilees speaks of the 2012 Dalliance Lake County Red, a blend of six varietals aged in separate barrels.
“I taste them individually first,” she explained. “But they all morph differently than you’d expect when in the bottle.”
What emerges from the reverent mix — Zinfandel and Syrah in equal measure, along with splashes of Barbera, Tempranillo, Cabernet and Grenache — is something lush, fruity and purely enjoyable.
Swirl it to the nose and aromas of plum jam, blackberry compote and ripe black cherries rush forward to welcome your attention. Behind this lag an acrid streak of tobacco partially smoked, along with cracked black pepper, clove and toasted nutmeg.
It’s an inviting sensation.
On the palate dark plum, split blueberry and ripe cherry baking in a cobbler form into a powerful triumvirate. Nipping at the edges, however, a bright and juicy berry blush brightens the mood. This pirouettes above hints of dusky spice — toasted cardamom, cinnamon — and a grassy, floral vibe.
On the finish, this see-saw struggle for balance between fruit and earth gathers into a nifty reprise. The sharp, fruity blades of Zinfandel and Barbera bring a reminder of fresh berries. But this is soon subsumed by the grounded spice of Grenache and Syrah.
“That’s the mystery of wine,” Merrilees observed.
Yet there is an evident human touch in the 2012 Dalliance Lake County Red. The team at Shannon Ridge looked at a number of barrel combinations before settling on largely neutral oak.
“We’ll taste the barrels,” Merrilees pointed out, explaining the process of scaling back on new wood until the desired results emerge. “The older barrels just give you that roundness.”
Mystery solved.
The genius of the Dalliance blend lies in the selection of varietals and the deft use of oak to mute a characteristic here, braise it there.
Resting on the structure allowed by Syrah, the juicy streak in Zinfandel finds footing. The brightness evident in Barbera discovers kinship in the Zin, as well. Tempranillo is therefore given room to strut its spicy, smoky nature. The Cabernet boosts the hearty, dark cherry savor.
“And there’s the Grenache to flesh it out,” Merrilees said.
So it is evident that some miracles are forged by the efforts of earthy fundaments — fruits well selected, staves winnowed down and the wonder of the winemaker intent on blending a few grapes into something special. The 2012 Dalliance Lake County Red is an every day wine, yet one with a temperament for special occasions.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
