Some imprudent sorts dismiss himmapan as entry level fare, suited more for skittish diners fearful of Thailand’s flaring spices.
No matter. The traditional stir fried combination of tranquil cashews and chicken in a complex acidic sauce remains a favorite for its comfortable tang and savory foundation.
At Lakeport’s Chalerm Thai Bistro, chefs tinker a bit with convention, substituting shrimp for the common white meat. In the “prawn” himmapan, sweet and earthy shellfish find companionship with root vegetables — carrots and onions — along with wedges of musty mushrooms and bright baby corn.
Yeah, it’s different. But slivers of cashew still provide that mellow nuttiness and textural contrast. And, really, with kai pad med mamuang himmapan or its shrimp alternative, the sauce is the thing.
Kitchen staff start with vinegar and sugar, a basic sweet and sour blend. These flavors — sweet and sharp — frame dry chile and toasted spices. The result is a wonderfully creaky, teetering balance.
One moment the sugars hold sway, lifting away from the ruddy broth. Before sweetness overwhelms your palate, a cutting blade of vinegar swats it back to earth, stirring a prickly rumble of heat. At each turn, the sauce ends up back at the tipping point, wavering yet holding steady.
This is fundamental to Thai cooking. No matter how many spices, no matter the combination of vegetables involved, diners should sense the influence of each.
So shrimp and baby corn? Consider it a chef’s adaptation. The technique behind it is deft, the resulting dish purely enjoyable.
“It’s pretty popular,” said Chalerm’s Tiffany Desportes. “It’s been on there since we made the menu.”
The restaurant’s himmapan is approachable, certainly. But it is also a course in why Thai cuisine calls out to us.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
