The most remarkable olive oils carry themselves with the confidence of a James Bond character. They are sophisticated, opulent and flow with equal ease through Michelin star restaurants and backyard gatherings. But they also wield a powerful kit — cutting blades of grass, pointed darts of pepper.
At first, Shannon Ranch Extra Virgin Olive Oil appears surprisingly playful. Its wardrobe leans toward bright, floral prints, revealed on the nose as a breezy summer meadow and hint of golden apple sweetness.
Only a tranquil nuttiness contradicts its lighthearted aromas.
Yet like any serious agent, the Shannon Ranch EVOO is practiced at the art of deception. The oil lulls you, wraps you in its embrace then captures you with its array of flavors.
At first, a rich and buttery sensation engages the palate. Indications of fruit just seem to enhance the allure. This notion of gentility is soon countered by hints of dry, cut desert grass and exotic aloe, suggestive of a hidden character both rustic and pampered.
Any mid-palate musing is broken by spikes of cracked black peppercorn. The earthy, raspy savor begin as potshots but build into a steady, stirring fusillade. The very power of this bitter streak lends an otherworldly impression, with the hearty verdure and cushy butter occupying part of your attention as the prickly pepper grabs hold of the rest.
It is a captivating olive oil, and one with enough swagger to become the centerpiece of a table — despite its posh introduction.
One might expect some craft behind the Shannon Ranch oil. The balance of complexity and punch is, after all, quite an achievement. But Shannon Ridge winemaker Joy Merrilees, also responsible for the Shannon Ranch label, credits Lake County terroir.
“We press in November and December and bottle at the end of March,” she said, shrugging off any suggestion of artistry.
The rest, Merrilees insists, involves nature and timing.
Shannon Ranch is a blend of Tuscan varietals that grow on one plot of the massive property and Spanish varietals that thrive in another. Because temperatures vary — one grove sits up high, one low — the crew harvests about four weeks apart as the olives peak.
“We pick on the ripe side,” Merrilees pointed out, adding that this patience helps the flavor profiles develop.
The Spanish varietals add depth to the buttery notes while the Tuscan bulk up the grassy flavor and the bold pepper. They press the olives at Chacewater in Kelseyville a few hours after harvest and allow the oil to settle separately in barrels.
Spanish and Tuscan oils do not blend until just before bottling. Other than sampling them separately to assess how the combination will work out, Merrilees and the team prefer a hands off approach.
It’s a good way to handle things. Clearly, the bond — and the Bond — comes naturally.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
