Occasionally one yearns for pizza, a classic burger, French, Chinese or trendy New American fusion. But few people, in the history of dining in this country, ever nudged a spouse or friend and chirped “Hey, let’s go out for some Canadian food.”
Apart from maple syrup, back bacon and Tim Horton’s, it might even be difficult for many Americans to single out a uniquely Canadian dish. Pore over the new menu at Fresh & Bangin’ Eatery, however, and you will run across the one item found in every nook of the frozen north.
Poutine may not sound appealing. According to culinary legend, when a regular at a small town cafe asked for a pile of fries and cheese curds, the outraged chef shouted “ca va te faire une maudite poutine!” — essentially dismissing the idea as a “damned mess” — and shoved it all into a paper bag.
That was in 1957. Today, the unlikely marriage of French fries, cheese curds and gravy is revered, even in upscale restaurants.
“It’s everything you love, in a bowl,” explained Fresh & Bangin’ chef John Arslanian. “It’s comfort food at its best.”
The combination is rich and warm, with an improvisational flair and heaping heart. Although familiar in its parts, the messy union transforms into something unexpectedly momentous.
Arslanian starts with his hand cut fries. They offer a plush, mellow savor with just enough bittersweet accents. The curds, imported from Wisconsin, carry a salty, creamy tang. The chef complements this with a rice flour crust.
“We wanted to give the curds a crunch,” he explained.
Each element is satisfying on its own. The fries are already a hit with Fresh & Bangin’ regulars and the curds, well …
“When customers ask, we tell them it is like the best mozzarella stick you’ve ever had,” Arslanian said.
White cheese curds present a gentle, nutty flavor over a fulfilling, briny base. The texture is unique, yielding casually to the bite.
The gravy somehow elevates these common attributes, draping them in regal finery, presenting them with lofty airs. The fries develop a hearty, meaty attitude to go along with this newly gilded state. The curds revel in the creamy wealth. Together they beckon to the senses.
Arslanian ditches the traditional musty brown gravy in favor of a version both luxurious and delicate. It starts with roasted bones developed into a stock and reduced to enrich the flavors before cushioning with cream.
The result would be irresistible if served in a cup with a spoon.
Poutine is simply a gorgeous mess — comforting, intriguing, satisfying.
Canada’s defining dish is a relative newcomer, entering the culinary vernacular in the second half of the 20th century. Yet it spread quickly across the north then to the U.S.
Still, it’s surprising to find it on a local menu.
“We want to do global cuisine — a little bit of everywhere,” Arslanian said. “Anywhere in Canada you can find that dish.”
Fresh & Bangin’ has made the urge for Canadian fare much more likely.
Dave Faries can be reached at 900-2016
